Nightime Madness 

DO the the 5.8 variation. It is only 5.8 for a short section and has good pro. The rest of the route is pretty good. Midway up the second pitch I went left and did a 8+ variation that I thought was hard. The last pitch is confusing from the topo. We did a deep chimney finish that seemed harder as you go up (pro disappears for a while) - could be I was tired. I think the chimney we finished in is the last pitch of old tom. maybe not?

Take your beginner friends to introduce them to multi pitch. If anyone has recomindations as to how to reduce rope drag at the third pitch at the entrance into the chimney let me know. the only thing I can think of is not placing in the thin crack just before and to the left of the chimney.

I agree with Doug - the chimney pitch was a tad spooky for 5.6, as perscribed by Hubbel. I got a couple pieces in towards the bottom and a #2 stopper a little more than midway though, but then didn't get anything until slinging the boulder at the top (maybe 15' above the #2). I went right side in - anyone ever try left in?

Went and did this one again... On the 2nd pitch, after the initial 25' foot crack, moving right up the face and into the LF corner and then back to the left nearly dooms your chances at making it to the belay ledge. The rope drag was bad enough that I had to belay at the cable below the squeeze/OW/hands section. Also, on the chimney pitch I got a couple equalized micros and a rp to protect the moves at the top of the chimney. Excellent route (especially w/ the LF corner var. on P2) with a little taste of everything you'll find at Turkey Rocks.

The upper chimney has a crack to the right on the lower half, taking small cams under 1/2 inch. If you bring a #6 Camelot, it wont protect the top part until the very end. This was easiest to climb facing to the left and using the face holds on that side of the chimney.

The white sling around the chockstone in the last chimney was still there as of 4-7-09.

I faced to the right in the chimney.. darn. It provided for solid climbing but definitely became runout. Someone left a sling on a chockstone way deep in there and I used it for peace of mind, but it was still about fifteen feet until I got an O.K. #5 in at the top.

I thought the chimney to the top was harder than 5.7. Maybe it was all the gear or something else but it felt solid 5.8. There was a slung block in the middle where it really pinched down.