This is an awesome one pitch climb. It starts out kinda wide (fists), and then goes to a really nice finger crack over a bulge, to bolts. Excellent finger jams, and is located in the middle of the rock formation.
This climb is totally sick!!! Footwork is the key to being successful on this route. If your ability is not up to leading at this grade. It is possible to climb nighttime madness variation (5.8) twenty feet to the left of Vanishing Point. From the first ledge it is possible to hook into Vanishing Points anchors. Another good sicky is Great White Crime (5.11a) right of Vanishing Point.
The finger crack on the first third of the route is of the best quality. Bomber finger locks up to the crux. The crux was difficult and required just the right foot work. After the bulge the crack opens to hands. Makes a great TR for aspiring 5.10 climbers like myself.
A blue Alien is a lifesaver through the crux. Don't be discouraged, some of the founders of this area (who first did this climb 20 years ago) still hang on this before firing Great White Crime.
Fun climb with bomber pro. Great finger locks all the way up, but pay attention to your feet. I thought this climb was slightly easier than Great White Crime.
By Hamish Gowans From: Golden, CO Nov 9, 2006 rating: 5.10a
One climbing companion, who came from a Rumney/Shelf Road/Hip-Hop background, climbed it on all cams. After lowering, he proclaimed "I'm so over nuts!" So I climbed it next on all nuts in retort. After getting the moves wired, this route became our warmup at Turkey, and I think it's easier than Quivering Quill and comparable to the cruxes on Satyr's Asshole or Straw Turkey.
On TR at the end of a long day, this was much easier, and less steep, than it looked. One face move at the crux. I may tell a different story when/if I come back to lead it, but perhaps not, as there are good stances just before and just after that one crux move.
Turkey Rock
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