Bob D on a early ascent of Sheer Shark Attack in 1...
Description
This is the main crag in the Turkey Rock area. It has wonderful crack climbing and some scattered face climbing with routes up to 3 pitches in length. The setting is beautiful, the cracks are plentiful, the difficulties are moderate, and the area is popular. At one point there was an entire guidebooklet devoted to this area with most of the routes on this rock. The granite is known for its coarseness. Taping may be considered for most. The walkoffs are straightforward. Enjoy.
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Getting There
When you approach Turkey Rocks from the campgound, you are walking up behind the formations. The trail goes to the top of the hill, and down towards the front of most of the climbs. At the top of the hill, (Looking downhill and away from the climbs) on the left is Turkey Perch. Down, and to the right is Turkey Rock. Turkey Tail is downhill, and left of Turkey Perch.
A varied climb of superb quality found on Turkey Rock's South Face. A fine introduction to South Platte offerings. From the Pass between Turkey Rocks and Turkey Perch, drop down and to the right, following the base of Turkey Rocks. The route starts on the West side of the South Face.P1: The traditional start is in a dark chimney on the West side (5.7) just past the lowest point of the face, but this chimney is better used to identify a hand cr...[more]
An alternate, and IMO easier, approach is to continue on FR 360 for approximately 1 mile past the campground sign. Take the first left after you get to the top of the hill (there used to be a tree marked with a red "dot" here), and follow that road until you reach one of two or three indistinct parking areas. Hike straight up and slightly right, aiming for the obvious low point of the ridge, and you will soon find yourself directly above Turkey Perch.
It is my understanding that all of the Pike national forest is closed due to the Hayman fire. this includes the Turkey rocks area. bummer. The south platte areas near Pine are all private land so they are still open.
I just talked to Pete Gallager at the Forest Service yesterday (April 22, 2003) and he said that there will most likely be a limited reopening of the Hayman burn areas on April 28th, 2003. Sheep's Nose will probably be accessible as normal, but climbers may only be able to access Turkey by foot from Stump Ranch...a long hike.
He was sure to emphasize that the decision is a "fluid" one, so don't count on anything for sure. Check http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/ for press releases, especially as we approach the April 28th date.
The perch is a good area for intermediate climbers like myself. Make sure and do Stephenwolf which is a classic 5.9 and a bit of a grunt in several places. Make sure and bring some tape gloves too. Awsome area, free camping, friendly climbers, bomber granite and not crowded during the week.
It basically says the rules are pretty much back to normal, just make sure you only park in designated parking areas, which are marked with signs.
By Pete Gallagher From: Manitou Springs, CO May 24, 2003
Turkey Rocks, Sheeps Nose, and Helens Dome/Acid Rock complex are all open to climbing. The only restriction is that you must park only in designated parking areas - signed with a "P". The current problem with Turkey Rocks access is that Forest Rd 360 (Cedar Mtn Rd) is currently closed and gated at the intersection with Stump Rd. This means that it is about a 2.5 mile walk (each way) to legally access the rocks. Be aware that many hazards exist in these areas, including widowmaker snags, burned out stump holes, and unstable boulders, especially on the descent route on the south side of Sheeps Nose. A Forest Service sawyer crew dropped most of the really dangerous hazard trees on the approaches and at the base of Turkey Rocks, Turkey Tail and Sheeps Nose this week, but a good wind storm could still bring trees down unexpectedly. Flash flooding is also still a threat on the approch to Turkey Rock (crossing Turkey Creek), and Helen's Dome (Goose Creek). Salvage logging operations are ongoing on Denver Water and State lands around Cheeseman Reservoir, as well on FS lands adjacent to roads to remove hazard trees. This timber is being transported out the 9-J Rd and Stump Rd down through West Creek - Watch Out for these guys!
The Forest Service is currently conducting a roads analysis for the entire burn area to determine which roads will remain and which will be closed. I would strongly encourage SPlatte climbers to participate in this process when the analysis is released for public comment and review, sometime around the middle to end of June. The Roads Analysis document, as well other proposed actions in the burn area will be available on the Hayman Recovery web-site. The link is http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/hayres/index.htm
Be forewarned that approaching Turkey Rocks from the Turkey Rocks Ranch Estates is NOT recommended unless you have specific permission from a local land owner. Apparently, some of the home-owners association members are getting pretty ticked-off about people parking at the end of Brooks Lane below Turkey Tail.
By Pete Gallagher From: Manitou Springs, CO Oct 29, 2003
The current access status of Turkey Rocks is that the Cedar Mtn Road (Forest Rd 360) is closed and gated approximately 1/4 mile from the intersection with the Stump Rd. It is a 2 - 21/2 mile hike or bike ride each way to the rocks, depending on whether you cut through the Big Turkey Campground, or go up to the traditional parking area on the back-side. The US Forest Service has completed a roads analysis of the roads in this area, and is just beginning an environmental assessment (EA) to determine which roads will be permanently closed, and which will be kept open. In addition, an EA is being conducted to determine whether to de-commission 5 campgrounds within the burn area. These campgrounds are Big Turkey, Molly Gulch, Goose Creek, Wildhorn, and Trail Creek. The official comment period for the campgrounds has already passed, but I think you can still write and get your opinions on the public record up the point when a decision is signed by the Forest Supervisor. There was a public "scoping" period for the roads analysis in April (http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/hayres/scoping.doc), and there might be another for the EA - you should call the Hayman Restoration Team Office in Colorado Springs at (719) 264-6154 for information.
I have received many calls, both at home and at work, regarding when- or if - the Cedar Mtn Road, as well as other climbing access roads are going to open. I think I can fairly say that if you don't get involved in the process, you may not be happy with the outcome. The National Environmental Policy Act of 1969 (NEPA) affords you, the PUBLIC, the opportunity to participate in analysis of the factors that go into making these decisions on YOUR public lands. Decision alternatives are developed based upon ecological and socio-economic factors, AND from the responses the FS receives from YOU - don't miss out on the opportunity. Don't be intimidated to call the office, but writing a letter is much better - it becomes an official document that is included in the administrative record of the EA. But, don't be a jerk, either. Well thought out and reasoned letters will serve us (the climbing community) much more than a rant that can easily be dismissed as coming from some crack-pot. Believe me, I've tried a fair amount of ranting in my thirteen years in the FS (those who know me know it just my nature), and it gets you absolutely nowhere with the decision makers. Well speaking of rants - I've probably expended more drivel than was necessary in this venue. I can only stress that climbers' participation is really important at this time. I would expect that a decision on the campgrounds could be made as early as before the end of the calendar year. The roads EA will probably be somewhat more controversial, and may take a little longer, but better to get your comments/opinions in now while the alternatives are being developed.
The road is open all the way to the parking area on the backside of Turkey rocks. It is in good shape.It's also open a couple of more miles towards Big rock.9-1-2004
Don't take the road from Turkey Rock. Go in from the town of Divide and follow Mulberry Gulch Road to the backside of the roack. Park, walkdown on the north side of the rock and then rappel off the back side and walk a mere couple hundred of yardds to your car.
I was wondering if anyone knows what the fingers/hand crack about 20 ft. right of the 5.6 Nightime Madness 3rd pitch chimney is. It fades out up high and you have to go over a small bulge with virtually no hands and a small nut below you. Felt real real hard. Someone said it was vanishing point but that climb is listed as only 1 pitch.????