You will see it in the Hubbel guide as 10d A1. It is about 75 feet right of the super classic 10c handcrack on the southeast face. You can't miss it.
P1: Scramble up 5.4 X block on the left for a direct start or 4th class scramble up the right side. You'll find the spot to belay from for the real business about 75' up.
P2: It starts as fingers and stemming, goes out a bulge to the left and intermittently goes through hands to stacks and pods for 100 feet or so. There are 2 completely unnecessary bolts on this route. Looking at their placement would seem to indicate that this route was aided (10d A1) prior to the popularization of big cams or big bro's.
Double rope rap to the ground from anchors.
I freed this route in 2003 though I have my doubts that I was the first to do so. I'd love some feedback from others who've done it. I find it hard to believe that I got the FFA on such an inviting line.
By Beached Nuts From: Bermuda bitches Jun 10, 2008
The name of this route is cool, I love the puns.
Anyway, I won't claim the FA of this route. The Hubbel guide calls it 10d A1 and it goes free at hard 11a/b. It's harder than say, "the maelstrom" but not much harder.
I have no doubt that the route was called 10d and was sent all free, making me a grade inflator.
The A1 is probably just there to point out that there are two completely unnecessary bolts next to the crack.
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