Not sure if this route has gone free or not, hopefully if anybody has done it or knows of somebody who has done it, this info can be added.
This route is on the east side of the south face of Flathead Dome. There are two parallel right leaning cracks. This route tackles the right hand crack.
The wall undercuts at chest level, so the first move is a fair crank. Jam up the bottoming, leaning, and sometimes sliightly dirty crack. It is pretty difficult to conserve your strength on this part, which is a bummer because you really need it later. The crack gets thinner and more bottoming the higher you go, and your right foot has a hard time contributing. As the crack peters out, the locks get more technical, strenuous, and sequential. [Finally], the crack ends and you are forced to figure out the last several feet of climbing to get to the anchors. There is a way to do it, but it sure isn't easy.
My partner ripped a black Alien near the top and almost ripped the blue Alien below it. It was pretty much holding by two lobes. Pretty exciting.
Protection
Good selection of stoppers from RP to fingers, micro cams (Aliens, TCUs), set of cams to hand sized, #2 ballnut for top crux.
I've been on this route a lot lately. It's friggin hard. I'll back up the comment that it's hard up top.
12b? Who knows, it hasn't been sent. If I send it, I'm calling it 11a and I'll let you all bitch about the rating. I've ripped black and blue aliens out of the crux on multiple occasions. A ballnut seems to hold better there.
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