The rock itself is separated (by a huge boulder) into two sections...a slabby area on the left that leads to a second pitch headwall, and an ampitheater on the right that contains some solid one pitch cracks. This is the furthest right of the routes in the amphitheater.
Starts out with some nice widish jams for about 20-30 feet. Step left over a bulge to a nice finger crack. The finger crack didn't like my stoppers too much, but was easily sewed up with a green Alien. In a way, these moves reminded me of the first pitch of Pear Buttress at Lumpy. Continue up the finger crack that widens so thin hands, and cruise past an easy bulge to the top. Walk off right. Fun.
Eds. note, this was submitted initially as Flake Route.
Protection
Hand size for the botton, TCUs for the finger crack, and a couple mid range cams for the top.
Very nice route. A larger piece like a #4 Friend may make the wider crack on the lower portion of the route a little more comfortable. There's a two-bolt anchor at the top. The person pictured below is on a different route.
By Ken Heiser From: Boulder, CO May 25, 2004 rating: 5.8+
I really loved this little route.Super rock great holds and great moves. Even a chickenhead at the top!!
All of the alcove routes are great, but this was the best of the bunch. This might make a good first lead for someone who has done some crack climbing, as the crux is short and all the gear can be placed from good stances.
This was named Illegal Smile. 1st ascent was in 1982 by myself with Tom E. following, was 5.8 at the time and sounds like it still is. Also a great John Prine song.
Parachute Rock
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