Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Parachute Rock
Show routes:
Select route...
5.9 Route 
A2 Route 
Alcove 5.9 Route 
Caped One, The 
Grunt, The 
Illegal Smile 
Lost Cord 
Miss Bliss 
No Chute aka Rip Cord 
Pete and Benz 
Slip Slidin' Away 
True Religon 

Illegal Smile 

5.8+

   

FA: Tom E. & Tom A., 1982
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 826 page views

Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Sep 8, 2002


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

pitch one


Description 

The rock itself is separated (by a huge boulder) into two sections...a slabby area on the left that leads to a second pitch headwall, and an ampitheater on the right that contains some solid one pitch cracks. This is the furthest right of the routes in the amphitheater.

Starts out with some nice widish jams for about 20-30 feet. Step left over a bulge to a nice finger crack. The finger crack didn't like my stoppers too much, but was easily sewed up with a green Alien. In a way, these moves reminded me of the first pitch of Pear Buttress at Lumpy. Continue up the finger crack that widens so thin hands, and cruise past an easy bulge to the top. Walk off right. Fun.

Eds. note, this was submitted initially as Flake Route.


Protection 

Hand size for the botton, TCUs for the finger crack, and a couple mid range cams for the top.



Photos of Illegal Smile Slideshow Add Photo
Southeast face.

BETA PHOTO: Southeast face.


Comments on Illegal Smile Add Comment
Show which comments
By Barrett Cooper
Feb 14, 2003

number 7

By Ken Heiser
From: Boulder, CO
May 25, 2004
rating: 5.8+

I really loved this little route.Super rock great holds and great moves. Even a chickenhead at the top!!

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 3, 2004

That girl in the picture is smok'in hot!!!! Someone should marry that girl!

By Darin Lang
Jun 10, 2004
rating: 5.8

All of the alcove routes are great, but this was the best of the bunch. This might make a good first lead for someone who has done some crack climbing, as the crux is short and all the gear can be placed from good stances.

By Tom A.
From: Co. Springs
Jan 29, 2008

This was named Illegal Smile. 1st ascent was in 1982 by myself with Tom E. following, was 5.8 at the time and sounds like it still is. Also a great John Prine song.

By England
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 24, 2009
rating: 5.8

Very fun climb. The only thing about this area that freaks me out a bit is the large rock(roof) above the anchors looks like it's about to fall off.