Jackson Creek warrants listing as a separate area at this point because it is completely distinct from the Devil's Head area per se, and is so far North that it doesn't really fit in with the South Platte area either. Furthermore, unlike most of the Splatte, all of the climbing is accessed from the Jackson Creek road, and this area now comprises close to twenty crags and well over 100 routes. The creek is relatively deep in the drainage and climbing can be cut short late in the season. Much of the climbing is trad and on typical Splatte granite that is uniformly excellent quality. While bolts do sporadically dot the faces, it is almost mandatory to bring the trad rack. Since the crags run North to South along the creek, they all have climbable West and East faces. Many of the developed crags host multi-pitch routes that run up to bona-fide summits. Expect a lot of crack work or a lot of friction, but on average climbing along JC is several number grades easier than the average on Devil's Head. Some classic domes at JC are the Jackson Creek Dome with half a dozen major walls, Split Rock, The Taj Mahal (host to some of the best climbing in JC), and numerous more minor crags. Like many South Platte adventures, it is important to sus out your descent from the crags ahead of time. Rap stations exist on some of the newer bolted slabs, but this is by no means the rule. If you come with your friction-head tuned in, expect long runouts between bolts. If you come gunning for cracks, bring a range of friends and camalots spanning the full size range. Camping at the JC campground is terrific in the Fall despite the dirt bikers who have been known to swarm to the South. Overall, JC offers an unusual blend of South Platte style climbing in a truly mountain setting on largely perfect stone.
Getting There
Perhaps the best approach to Jackson Creek is via the Rampart Range road, rather than approaching from the East. The East approach on the Jackson Creek road washed out years ago and is still tough to manage. Using the directions for Devil's Head, take State highway 67 West out of Sedalia. Take the Rampart Range road (300) South at the ranger's kiosk (they will want some money, but this is not obligatory). Continue South after passing the turn for Devil's Head, and in a few miles you will come to a left turn that drops sharply down hill - this is the South end of the Jackson Creek road, and is close to 14 miles from highway 67. Climbing begins a mile or so after the turn, adjacent to the campground, and continues East and North along the creek.
Looking down on the valley, this crack stares at the road below. You can look up and see it from the road, from there, it appears to be a fist crack splitter. Once up to it, you see that it's about 45 degrees overhanging, 45 degrees right leaning, flared, sharp, and offwidth.It starts as hands, goes to a pod, goes through some fists, then gets too wide to use a fist right at the lip. The rock is the crumbly south platte variety but the crack is g...[more]
The old Jackson Creek road is not only washed out, but it's path crosses private property owned by some not-too-friendly locals. Definately best to drive down from Rampart.
The Jackson Creek road is FR 502. Heading South on Rampart Range (FR 300), after the turn to Devil's Head campground, FR 502 is the first left turn you come to, 3 or 4 miles further South. FR 507 is North of the turn for Devil's Head camping. For what it is worth, I'd pick up a copy of the Colorado Atlas (DeLorme). Might save a lot of thrashing around.
Jackson Creek
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