Return to Forever 

This route does not see much sun. A good summer climb for the afternoon.

This pitch is far more enjoyable with tape, those Pikes Peak crystals put a hurtin' on the hands. Hot Flashes is still waiting for the f.f.a. of pitch two; down climb the Sphinx Crack route....

I thought the crux was pulling the first overhang. After that, the moves are straight forward, even if strenuous. I agree w/ Bryson that tape is a really good idea. A lot of the jams are flared, but you can get a good bite on the sharp crystals with some tape (or your flesh).

I thought the overall experience on this one was great, but the rock quality isn't tops.

My opinion is that the first roof is mid 10. There are some sinker jams after one thin move. The next roof is very strenuous and feet are thin. I ended up doing a lay back/ high step into a flare in the crack to pull through it. I recommend and #4 and #5 ball nut for this section, a green alien helps as well.

Everyone told me that the first overhang isn't the crux, but I beg to differ. Bryson, you're right, I left some blood on that climb!

I believe this route is called 'Return to Forever'.10d if on the redpoint, 11a on the onsight. First roof off the deck gets .10+.There is a great .75 at the crux if you know where to place it. Place gear well in the splatte crystals, to prevent them from pulling...

Awesome route, my 'first' .11 trad redpoint.

On the redpoint. Trick is to not plug up your jams with gear, and move quickly through insecure jams... probably general knowledge, but this climb is where it really made a difference for me.

This is one of the better climbs in the platte. As a local resedent I spend a lot of time on it. The second roof is definitely the crux and the first roof, while hard is not. The first roof should be easy if you're tall, but if you're fifteen and 5'4" like me, you'll get it with a little examination and technique. Gear gets a little sketchy after the second roof, but if you're leading it and make it past the secound roof, the following 5.9/8 climbing should be nothing.

This is the route that we named "Romantic Warrior" when Eric Weinstein and I did the FA back in March 1977. Thought this was in a magazine somewhere? We rated it 5.10d.Bruce MorrisBelmont, California

Maybe the late Eric Weinstein did name it "Return to Forever". He was into Chic and Stanley and all that fusion stuff during the late '70s.

Difficult climbing through the roof as I struggled and fell. #1-#3 Camalots. Tape is indeed helpful as this granite can get painful and nasty. Bring extra gear for the top as there are no anchors.

This route would get 4 stars if not for the poor rock quality above the 2nd roof. Still, fun climbing when it was open!