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Bucksnort Slab
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Slippery When Wet 

Good Virbrations 

5.11b

   

FA: Bob D'Antonio and Kelly Baldwin
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 507 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Nov 19, 2004


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Description 

The route climbs the first 20 feet (gear) of Classic Dihedral and then goes right on a large large to a short, left facing corner. Climb up the corner (gear) and then follows a line of bolts up the obvious water streak. The crux is at bolt eight but the route is fairly continous in the 9-10 grade. Classic slab climbing and one of the best routes on the wall.

Caution: a 60 meter rope WILL NOT MAKE IT TO THE GROUND FROM THE ANCHOR!


Protection 

A light rack of small cams and 13 quickdraws will get you to a two-bolt anchor.



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By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Nov 20, 2004

Bob, Where is this in relation to slippery when wet/Slippery when dry? Sounds like it shares the first part. (Too cold to go look at today)

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Nov 20, 2004

Derek- the route follows the first 10 feet of SWD and then fires straight up the obvious water streak.

SWD is a wandering line and zig-zag across the upper face right of the left facing corner. IMHO I think this route has better climbing and takes a beautiful direct line up that section of the wall.

By Chad Stebbins
Nov 23, 2004

Bob, does this share the anchor or any bolts with Slippery When Wet?

I do recall the line up the water streak looking very inviting...

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Nov 23, 2004

Chad- it does not share any bolts or the anchor with SWD. As stated before, excellent slab climbing and one of the finer routes on the crag.

By Chad Stebbins
Nov 23, 2004

Just trying to orient myself. For some reason I recalled Slippery When Wet joining the prominent water streak after jogging out to the right, and returning left, on the face. I looked at a photo on the Classic Dihedral description and noticed the top of SWW is to the right of the prominent water streak, and follows a much less pronounced streak.

I recall looking at your line from SWW, looked very aesthetic and natural, although difficult. I'm surprised it went at that "moderate" of a rating. I'm looking forward to giving it a go.

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Dec 11, 2004

The bolts were removed from this climb and two other recent climbs on the crag.

The person who chopped the bolts, took the anchors and hangers and did not fill the holes in.

That person owe me over a $100.00 dollars. Please return the hangers and replaced the bolts.

You can contact me via e-mail on this site.

I will be out at the crag next week replacing the chopped bolts with hard-to-chop glue-ins.

If that person tried to chop those bolts without contacting me first, they will only see the process of chopping and replacing continue for a long time.

These routes were good if not great additions to the cliff. They where independent routes with good protection and wonderful moves. If he chopper have a problem with these routes and how they were done could have easily contacted Viano, Kelly or me to discuss that issue.

Bob D.

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Dec 12, 2004

Concerned Citizen: No one has use a petition to put up a route on Bucksnort or any other crag near it.

The bolts will go back in and on the lead. It will only take me an hour or so more than on rappel.

You are more than welcome to meet me out at the crag if you wish.

These routes were are independent and in no way were grid-bolted. They took natural lines up unclimbed sections of the crag.

Pokey share the anchor with Gumby Groove because after the last bolt you follow a easy groove to the left for 25 feet to get to that anchor. The route is over 80 to long feet long with 7 bolts. The route was done on the lead.

Prickle's Problem is over a hundred feet long with 9 bolts. You are alway clipping with the last bolt at least 2 to 4 feet below you.

Good Vibrations take an independent line and follow a nayural line up a water groove. SWW wanders back and forth all over the place and Ken Trout top-roped this line and thought it was a better route.

So now that bolts are going in on lead what will be your lame-ass excuse to chop them?

As stated before: many bolts on the crag have been placed on rappel and the style I used did not vary that much from other routes on the crag.

You are a scared little boy who does not have the balls or conviction to sign his own name and take responsibility for his weak and pathetic actions.

See you at the crag.

By Jim Gloeckler
Dec 13, 2004

Bob D Do not let people tell you how to bolt your climbs! The results are what matters, and if you ask me the clips (on rap bolted routes) are more thought out than climbs that have been bolted on lead for the most part. Also, when I climbed a lot, I was always very thankful for those of you who took the time and effort to establish bolted climbs. God knows the South Platte has needed people like yourself to not only establish new climbs, but to make older ones safer by re-bolting them like "cheops". The only thing that I have noticed is that you seem to be bolting in some real accessible areas, climbing area wise, and wonder if that is causing unrest due to access issues. We will never please everyone, so why even try after awhile? You seem to be an intelligent type of person and I would rather have too many bolts put in by people like yourself than not enough by the likes of all the ground-up (shaking on hooks) type, resulting in spinners or worse!

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 27, 2005

I've been climbing at this cliff since the late 70's. The same people, or clones thereof (God help us all) have been chopping routes here for a long time, regardless of how they were put up. Ditto with Squat Rocks, Ding Domes, Sphinx, and Atlantis Slab Area. These actions suggest that some people learn nothing as they get older and/or that intelligence is stifled at a certain age in some people. Also, if this is a new generation doing this, that the gene pool (look it up if you have to) is getting shallower every year.Most importantly, Bucksnort is one of the few rocks in the Platte that is on private property and hasn't been closed. This issue, if continued, could lead to that.As I can only get to certain cliffs do to conditions brought about by extreme substance abuse, and then only with a walker, I guess that I really shouldn't be too concerned. Shuffleboard is FUN-let no one tell you differently!!Name isn't registered yet, but this comes from Pete Hubbel