This route is the bolted line to the right of Elusive Wapati. There are 4 bolts to cover 90 feet of climbing, so it's a tad run-out without many "easy" sections.
Start to the right of Elusive Wapati, climb up and right for about 25 feet to the first bolt. Alternatively, climb up between the wall and the large boulder to the right of the start before tackling the wall straight on. From the first bolt angle/ traverse to the left to the second bolt. After the second bolt, the route trends back to the right to the third bolt. The forth bolt is some distance straight up, and the finish is even farther. Overall, the climbing is fairly consistant.
This climb is very enjoyable, however, not best for your first 5.10 in the Platte, due to the run-outs. In fact your best first 5.10 in the Platte is a 5.9, and your best first 5.9 is a 5.8, and so on. You get the picture.
Protection
4 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor. Shares anchor with Elusive Wapati and Sex favors.
I was shakin' like a leaf after the first clip. This climb really tests your courage.
HINT:if the first runout freaks you out as much as it did me, try to place in the mini crack before the first clip. there is a small opening toward the top of the crack which can maybe fit like a #1.
The moves to the first bolt are easy if you traverse in from left to right, but it is a ways off the deck. The flake before the first bolt takes a #2 TCU (Yellow). Great sustained route. I agree with the Hubble rating - 5.10b
Squat Rock
RSS Feed
