Little Bro, Matt, working the seam onsight. Good p...
Description
This route is located on the right side of the Bucksnort slab. Look for a left leaning crack that passes a large block with a single bolt above.
Pitch 1: 5.9+ 90'
Climb the crack up and left past some tricky moves down low and up to a large block. Pro is good but difficult to see because it is at your feet in the crack behind the block. Pass the block, clip a bolt and make some steep face moves. Clip a piton and move up an easier ground to a bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: 5.8 120'
Hand traverse left above the belay and enter a hand and fist crack. Climb straight up the crack passing a small bulge with an old fixed piece. Continue up the easier slab above the bulge to the top of the cliff and belay at a large pine tree.
First pitch is very worthwhile. I believe the second pitch referred to is the same as the second of Bush of Baelzebub. However, several options are available from the bolt belay.
A rather unique route that diagonals up and left in a straight line. It had me fooled from the ground--I thought I'd climb it from beneath the crack, but suddenly I ended up standing on top of it, which made for awkward stances throughout. Good fun!
I replaced the protection bolt for this climb (it was a bad 1/4 inch button head). Also, at the bolted anchor for the first pitch, I replaced one bolt/ hanger, one leeper hanger, and added chains/ links. It is now a very satisfying anchor.
This sounds like the route Bill Feiges and I named "Motor Mouth" when we did the F.A. back in the summer of 1977. "Motor Mouth" was a name David Crosby applied to himself in an article on CSN&Y in the Rolling Stone magazine.Bruce MorrisBelmont, California
Bob D. is absolutely right. Ms. Fanny worked out in the Washington Park Gym in Denver and she always wore a t-shirt with the Le Pump label on the front (c. 1976). Of course, she was built like that too....
By Brian Tessier From: Lakewood Mar 6, 2005 rating: 5.9
Thanks for the gear upgrade!
By Buff Johnson From: Coniferous, CO Jan 20, 2006 rating: 5.9+
My impression of this route is one of aquired taste. This route is probably a good one, but I found it left a sour taste with me.
The start is a little tricky, it just doesn't climb the way you think it should. Thanks for ugrading the bolt protecting the crux move, I found it a necessary placement (the crux move is really cool). Aliens worked well on the traversing seam, but I found cams did not offer adequate protection from the lower seam, about 10' lower than a small foot ledge with a block, up to the bolt. For the second, this could be an issue. I did find that there is a tailor-made bomber placement for a blue tri-cam in the foot ledge area, so you may want to bring one along. Or, teach your second the art of fixed-line ascension should they peel off & swing.
The anchor is updated & rappel will take either a single 60M (just rap uphill a little bit), or single 70M straight down. A single 50M is ill-advised.
All of this is with regard to the first pitch, I consider the second pitch as a part of the Bushes line.
By Matt Nelson From: Soon to be Colorado!!! Again.. Jan 26, 2006
A very psychological route in my opinion. Has a great crux move. The route doesn't climb as you think but it works great with your feet on the top of the crack...(getting pro in is interesting). A worthwhile climb. Definitely not for someone just breaking into 5.9 climbing.
By Christopher Jones From: Bailey, Colorado Jul 1, 2009 rating: 5.10-
Lead this route tonight after work. It was my second time on it, the first was following my friend Walter about six years ago. Nice fun route not an easy 5.9.
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