Do it every summer.
Bucksnort Slab contains many quality, although difficult (5.10-5.11 range) slab climbs, as well as some disjunct cracks and the classic Crack of Anticipation (aka Classic Dihedral), a 150-foot 5.7 crack. The descent from most routes can be via either a walkoff or rappel.
Eds.: This area has been the scene of various bolt wars and the status of some climbs unclear at this time.
From Pine (see area description), take Elk Creek Road 2.2 miles east. Bucksnort Slab will be obvious from this point, rising up directly north of the road. Parking is limited right in front of the crag, so you may have to go another 0.2 mile and walk back.
Note, the Bucksnort is typically closed on Wednesdays (just so you won't get disappointed).
Browse More Classics in Bucksnort Slab
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bucksnort Slab:
Featured Route For Bucksnort Slab
: South Platte
: ... : Bucksnort Slab
This is one of my favorite 5.7s in Colorado. It's long (160 feet), takes good pro, and clean rock the entire way. The route is very easily found right where the trail from the road first meets the rock at a large flat opening. It's the obvious dihedral that continues all the way to the top. There is a second pitch.The first fifty feet is only an easy warmup, then the real fun begins at a small ledge. Follow the perfect crack up past some great hand jams and into a lieback finish at the top....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Photo: Louis Charles McClure between 1890 & 1920.
Photo: Louis Charles McClure between 1890 & 1920.
BETA PHOTO: From the road.
Bucksnort Saloon -- just a mile up the road from B...
|Comments on Bucksnort Slab
|By Chad Stebbins|
Jul 21, 2002
The couple of slab climbs that we tried seemed f'in hard for the grade (or I just can't climb difficult slabs...). Just be aware that 50 lbs. of sand seem to be the crux. The cracks were enjoyable and seemed graded appropriately.
May 6, 2006
I just wanted to thank the person that destroyed the bolts on the right most side of Bucksnort Slab. Next time you feel YOU are in charge of the area, email me so we can meet up and discuss this matter further. I think it was very childish of you. I'm not a typical climber. I would have kicked your ass if I had witnessed this unwarranted destruction. Thanks a lot jackass.
Jun 19, 2008
To all climbers in Sphinx Park, Colorado: If you are thinking about climbing what you call "Buck Snort Slab", I'd suggest you don't. That rock face is on PRIVATE PROPERTY. We put up signs regularly, and as soon as we put them up, someone takes them down. If your bolts are missing, that is why. For those of you that have been greeted with a weapon, they are volunteer firefighters, sheriff, or locals protecting that land. From the moment, you step off Elk Creek Rd. to the moment you cross the land to get to Old Stage Coach Rd., you ARE ON PRIVATE LAND! We are tired of the damage to our property and have fought this issue as a family longer than some of you have been alive! We have been in that canyon in our cabin since 1920!!!! Be aware, if we catch you, expect a lawsuit!
|By jeff bryan|
From: Cortez, co
Jul 2, 2008
Bucksnort Slab - I spoke with one of the JeffCo SO. They informed me that they were unaware of any closure on Bucksnort Slabs. I am also a volunteer firefighter with Elk Creek. I have never heard of ANY Elk Creek firefighter chasing someone off the slabs. I don't think any of the fine firefighters of North Fork have done so either.
Please respect this area, pick up trash, support the local community and show people how we climbers can be an asset to the community and not a burden. Thanks
|By Chris Chaney|
From: Arvada, Colorado
Nov 19, 2008
Bucksnort appears to be located almost completely within the property at 16091 S. Elk Crek Rd. and IS private and owned by a person named Short.
Also, the property on both sides of the road is under the same ownership.
Jefferson County has a great mapping program called jmap which will give ownership information for any parcel in the county. This is great for making sure you are not trespassing or giving you the contact info to determine who you need to contact for permission. It stays up to date. Check it out here: jeffco.us/jmap/
You will need to view it in IE. It won't work in Firefox.
You can find a property by either zooming in with the zoom tool or by typing in the street address in the field to the left and then selecting the appropriate street from the list provided. You can also search by owner last name or road name.
Sep 20, 2010
Have no idea what the ownership of status of climbing here is, but I got a friendly wave from a sheriff who happened to drive by as I was hiking in with gear.
Whoever smashed the bolts has some real mental problems--other than injuries, one of the saddest things I've seen climbing.
Not a great place to climb on a hot, sunny day.
Oct 10, 2011
To Dawn M and her very clandestine post:
I think if this were truly a problem for the almost 100 yrs you imply it has been, then the Sheriff would be ticketing cars left and right every day they drive the road! Think what a revenue maker that would be.
But alas, they do not.
All the decades my friends and I have climbed on this rock we have NEVER had any issues with anyone. We know better than to park like an assh#@es, to top out all the way/ walk off as there are some cabins and residences up there. But the residents we did encounter one time were very friendly as we were respectful of them.
Tresspassing results in a ticktet/fine possibly an arrest (in an extreme situation). A lawsuit? Please!
So your antagonistic approach is WRONG. Outreach works better than threats of violence. And if it is such a big problem, why haven't residents of the area gotten together and and forwarded their concerns to say The Access Fund or Jeffco Sheriff Dept???
Sounds to me like you are one person who possibly had a bad run in with some "climbers" and now label all of them a threat to you.
If you take the time to meet some of the climbers out during the day, you'd see that they are real people, respectful of others, have great concern/care for the lands they visit and can be a lot of fun to hang out with.
|By John Ryan|
Nov 3, 2012
Climbed this 11/2/12. Here's some clarification of the second pitch. We read the second pitch was 'not recommended' with no reasons given. We saw rumors of a walk-off, so we brought one rope. At the top of first pitch 150-ish feet, there were three solid modern anchors and two old school 1/4 inch anchors. The start of second pitch was great - delicate feet with some hand jams and laybacking. Tricky and fun. After 15 feet of this you pull up onto an easy stance. Here's where it starts to suck. 20 feet of easy unprotected slab climbing leads to a squeeze between a huge thorn bush and piles of bat guano to a rap station at a very huge, very dead tree. With one rope, we have to top out. Straight up is the chossiest granite I have ever seen, person-sized loose blocks and flakes. Topping out involved traversing through thorn bushes, cacti, shit rock to a safe exit. The second pitch is not recommended - because after fifteen feet it sucks. Just bring two ropes and rap from the dead tree if you need a multipitch fix like we did. Also, there is a nice house right at top out FYI. The walk down climber's left was easy.