Squat Rock and Sphinx Rock are currently both closed.
Squat Rock has been the scene of a number of bolt "wars" in the past and has a little-known moniker that is less than kind to the original developer (unfairly? I don't know, I wasn't around at the time). The generally one-pitch slab and crack routes, however, are quality, and include the classic 5.9s Lichen or Not and Elusive Wapiti. Currently, the crag is by no means overbolted and expect some 5.7 - 5.9 runouts on the slab climbs.
Getting There
From Pine (see area description), take Elk Creek Road West for approximately 0.7 miles to a small parking area (2, maybe 3 cars will fit). Hop boulders across the creek and follow the obvious trail for 5 minutes. It's best to keep following the trail to the point where your route starts as some unpleasant boulder hopping is required if you cut straight to the rock.
Excellent, sustained vertical hand crack in a dihedral right of the Squat Rock summit. Approach as for Lichen or not, and then go up and right to the first alcove past the buttress directly below the summit block. Reminiscent of the first pitch of Friday the 13th (Vedauwoo), although slightly steeper and not as clean as the latter climb.10 feet of easy ground leads to sustained hand jams and a short thin hands/lieback (crux) to a small ledge. ...[more]
As of 11/29/05 the board that facilitated passage of the creek is gone. You'll need to brave a fairly long leap over ice water or bring an eight foot board. Whatever you do, don't trespass by crossing the bridge to the north.
Went there today, there are "no trespassing" signs everywhere that state that Squat Rock and Sphinx Rock are off limits. The signs specifically prohibit climbing and hiking. I was told by a local that the owners are concerned about liability issues. Time to get caught up on my Access Fund dues.
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