A series of spires/rock towers just a bit northwest of Devil's Head. Not much development, but the potential for a lot. Some routes are listed in Hubbel's guidebook, but not many. These spires stick up in the air away from the ridge (except 2nd and 3rd, which are on the windward, SW-facing side), so they stay sunny and clear off early. Unlikely you will see anyone all day at any time of year. Rock is typical Pikes Peak granite of good quality with very little exfoliation. This area was not involved in any of the Buffalo Creek area fires, and so are treed. Water is not available.
Getting There
From Sedalia, head west on CO 67 until you get to Sprucewood, turn left (south), and drive about 7 miles on the curvy road until you get to Trail 677. You can take this, or drive another mile or so south and pull out to the right (west) on a forest road access (used for thinning) with a green gate. Hike west and then north on the path of least resistance, using old logging/thinning roads and eventually crossing TR 677, heading north until you hit the South Noddle (4th Noddle). Expect 45 minutes minumum to get to S. Noddle, a bit longer to get to 1,2, or 3rd Noddles.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Noddle Heads:
By Jeremy Hakes From: Golden, Colorado Jun 10, 2008
Part of my reason for posting/adding this area is to solicit input from the many climbers who have been in the area and done these formations. Please add routes and beta!
I have not climbed there but I have worked in the area on prescribed burns and wildfires. The approach to these formations seems to be somewhat long unless you have an ATV or dirt bike. Trail 677 is heavily used by motorcycles and ATVs so get out of the way if you hear them coming.
In 2005 added 70ft. 4 bolt 5.7 slab on east side of fourth noddle head. Also two rap anchors for two pitch 5.8 crack climb (To High To Die). There is still so much potential on these formations. The approach is more like 1 1/2 hours on foot. Is there a more direct aproach than motorcycle trail #677 that doesn't cross private land?
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