BETA PHOTO: The left side. The Cloak takes direct line up to t...
cut the BS, just tell me what i am in for...
THE Sheeprock testpiece. It's time for me to let this one go. As far as I know, this has not seen a complete free ascent. The closest i have come is about 5.12A0, with some french freeing of the roof pitch and headwall. Maybe i will try again this fall. This line follows the most direct and some of the steepest features to the summit of Sheeprock. The last pitch cuts right through center of the headwall. This also provides the only rap line down the North Face from the summit.
Start on the far left side of the North side, at the bivy site. 4th class 30' to the cozy Perch.
P1: "The Gateway". 10+. This pitch also provides access to trad routes SolArian and Black Sheep. Slab and sequential face climbing warm-up. Pass a chain anchor at 100 feet and continue on easier ledgy climbing to an excellent 3 bolt belay ledge. 170' 16 bolts. Use a few long runners in spots.
P2: "Black Sheep" dihedral. 11+. Insecure step into the right facing dihedral and tricky crux pulling around at the 3rd bolt. This sets the stage and establishes you onto the Cloak. (Continuing up the corner actually is the Black Sheep Variation to P2 of SolArian. While Solarian follows the arching, right-facing dihedral to the right.) Once around the corner, finish on easier slab and face to an exposed hanging 3 bolt belay. 65' 8 bolts.
P3: The Roof Pitch. 12+. Tighten up your shoes. Sustained steep edging and smears seperated by 2 roofs. The first and smaller of the two being an improbable balance boulder problem at, say, V5. Once over the roof, sequential face climbing follows a leaning rounded arete to near-impossible friction slab below a five-foot roof. Paw your way over this powerful roof. Difficulties drop immensely for the last two clips to a comfortable tiered 3 bolt belay. Probably the biggest challenge on this relentless pitch is keeping your concentration sharp and your calves from burning! Be smart with some longer draws/runners as the route wanders a bit. 115', 16 bolts.
P4: The Headwall Pitch. 12+. Soak up the exposure. This follows an unbelievable natural weakness in an otherwise impasse. Follow the first few clips on big holds to a ledge rest. Continue on steep and vertical sustained face climbing with small knobs, edges, and sloping stances to where the angle finally breaks. The crux is about midway with a reachy sequence of crimps. Chase several more clips on 5.10 to a great ledge 30' below the summit. 125', 16 bolts.
P5: 5th class past two bolts to summit anchors and enjoy the view. congratulations.
Rap the route with two 60m ropes (3 raps). Best rap is from stations 4 to 3, 3 to 1, 1 to Perch. Although its possible with 2 x 70s to stretch the rap from 4 to 2, and 2 to Perch (although pulling ropes is more of a workout this way).
Where the hell does it start?
Far left side of Land Time Forgot, between T19 and Ankar Gate.
How many draws do I need?
About a dozen quickdraws of various lengths, and a half-dozen shoulder length runners. XSGrip or Onyx shoe rubber. ;) 2x60m ropes to rap.
Awesome route, awesome place, great exposure, too much fun. would be really hard to onsight. Kudos to Darren for the really hard work. Dude, give a rest to the Cloudveil Jacket, hang it on the wall of the livingroom or something, Dani from the other Hemisphere
Land that Time Forgot
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