SolArian is identified by the striking, sunlit, dihedral system on the left side of the North face of Sheeprock. This route features face climbing, layback corners, a 100', diagonaling, finger crack traverse, and great exposure for only 3 pitches. This is one of few trad routes on the North face.
Begin as for Cloak of the Wolf, on the Perch above the bivy spot on the left side of Land that Time Forgot.
P1: shares the first pitch of the Cloak. The wet and chossy crack systems are not that appealing. But the bolted start of the Cloak is really good. 5.10+, 185', 16 bolts, 3 bolt belay on a great belay ledge.
P2: classic. Lieback up the leaning, right-facing dihedral (5.9) to a steep, cruxy step left into the main dihedral, protected by a bolt. (the "Black Sheep" Variation (5.11+S) goes up the leaning finger crack dihedral left and joins right above this point.) Jam through a weakness in a roof above a spooky, hollow flake to a 3-bolt, hanging belay. Save a #2, #0.75, and maybe a #3 cam for the roof. be mindful of rope drag. 5.10, 105' (you cannot retreat after this point).
P3: excellent and memorable. Continue up the finger crack above the belay (difficult to protect) to join a dihedral and A-frame roof. Pull around the roof, 5.10+, (strangely reminiscent of Fat City crack in Lumpy) where a tight, finger crack splits to the right. This is the crux of the entire route. CAUTION: be sure to place pro for your follower, the roof edge is sharp! Dance the finger crack traverse (5.9) for about 100' to a comfortable sunny belay ledge with two bolts (and a great place to take a pic of your follower!). This pitch gobbles up nuts and aliens. Save a #1 for the final moves to the ledge. 5.10+, 150'.
[From here, I originally planned on climbing the short dihedral above to the summit slabs, but it looked very difficult, no pro, and the rock looks a little chossy after turning the lip. To my knowledge, this has not been attempted, but would be a cool and logical finish to the route.]
So instead.....
Traverse the ledge right for about 20' to rap anchors where you escape by rapping 70' to the top of Ankar Gate, and 5th class traverse to the saddle and have a picnic. If you still want to summit, climb Velcro Wall via Acid Crack,5.5, (classic!) and a couple hundred feet of 3rd class slabs to the top.
I typically bring a 1-1/2 set of stoppers, 2-3 sets of Aliens up to yellow, doubles of #0.5, #0.75, and #1 Cams, and one #2, #3, and even a #3.5 is useful. 2X60m ropes.
Land that Time Forgot
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