South Ramp 

FA:  ? Unknown Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.5 [details] Length:  2 pitches, 300 feet Season:  Spring - late Fall Views: 134 page views Submitted By: Jeremy Hakes on Sep 4, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: This is the crux - the small crack is the only pla...

Description 

There is a small crack about 15’ up and to the climber’s left from this crack system (the belay), and that is about the only place you can get any gear in. Grippy but somewhat loose (re: sometimes easily broken) granite knobs. This lower part is the crux, going about 5.5 in our opinion. Not much protection (none), and severe consequences for a fall. A fall from here would likely be terminal. Head up to the green braided nylon rope. We found it was tied into a dubious “bolt” – a hexhead 3/16” bolt in some (?) anchor holding on an aluminum hanger (which seemed strong enough, had the anchor been better). After clipping this dubious protection, you are able to walk up the steep slab (4th class very steep slab X rating). The next person who goes down there for this route would do everyone a favor by replacing this "bolt" with a real bolt. After the upper crack belay, climb right around the boulders to the "veg" route, bending left then up. Route to the top is obvious from here. Steep 3rd class (but falling would be very, very bad). We found rappel anchors on the west ridge. 2 60m ropes BARELY reached the ground just below the Velcro Wall. In theory (not tested), you could rap down with 1 60m rope to the mid-rap anchors, and then down to the bottom of the Velcro Wall.

Location 

Route is the south facing ramp going up to the summit. You have to down-hike the west ridge heading south about 150' vertically before you can get onto the rock massif itself. From there, hike an ascending line NE up steep 3rd class ramps to a huge horizontal crack. The start is above the VERY large horizontal crack. The route goes to the climber's left to a small weakness and a down-facing crack at a small band of larger quartz pieces in the granite, then straight up to the crack splitting the huge rocks above you up the ramp. Rappel anchors on the west side of the main massif. a 60M rope is needed for both the climb and the rappel.

Protection 

Small nut for the crux. 1 draw for the "bolt", small-mid sized cams for a belay at the huge boulders above.

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BETA PHOTO: This is just above the "belay" at the bottom of th...	BETA PHOTO: This is the large overhang you head up towards. T...	BETA PHOTO: This is the "veg" route after the lower crux pictu...
BETA PHOTO: This is the lower large crack system for the belay...