Smoking Section

Description 

If you want a warm-up to the weekend, or don’t have much time, check out the Smoking Section. This was a definite hot spot of the fire, hence the name. Almost a dozen short one pitch outings are here, as well as a few hard slab and crack testpieces, such as Nooner.

Getting There 

See Sheeprock directions...

this little outcropping of routes, has a realitively short approach, that quite literally takes about one-cigarette's-time to get there from the car.

quick'n'dirty route list 

route list starts from right to left. At the top of the cairned approach trail, locate an overhanging right facing "shade" boulder and the obvious Nooner crack to the right.

'Nooner' - 5.12 next to tall burned limbless tree trunk is a short finger crack to bolted anchor. Pro: small gear, one bolt

'Little Doohah' - 5.6 a second pitch to nooner (and helluva lot easier), although can access it from the right up a ramp. Pro: a few bolts and pro for the timid

'This Aint Eldo' - 5.11+ angling arch and underclings finishes with Nooner. TCUs 2 bolts

The following four routes all go to the same anchor at 110' with variations possible...

'Pink Lung' - 9+ follows the pink bulge, turning the dark grey bulge.

'Carcinogen' - 9 starts in crack system left of pink lung, up some slab and finshes with Pink or Nicotine. Pro: light SR, and bolts

'Surgeon General' - 5.10/11 all bolted direct start to finish on bulge of Nicotine.

'Nicotine' - 5.10 starts in right angling handcrack, to finger crack, beelines to undercling bulge. pro SR and some bolts

'Smoker's Cough' - 5.6 the wide right facing corner to bombay chimney, traversing to a stance with bolts (orange sling!?). Pro: SR, a few wide pieces. pretty damn-fun novelty pitch!

'Marlboro Man' - 5.11+ follow the bolted arete and face left of Smoker's Cough. hard. 8 or 9 bolts

way up the shitty hill to the left is one long sustained route called 'Emphysema' 5.10d/11a on Upper Smoking Section. bring 70m or two ropes. traverse in from left along ledge to single belay bolt, or direct start up slab below.