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Buffalo Soldier 

5.10b R

   

FA: Dave Dunblazier & Kathy
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 150 feet
Views: 269 page views

Submitted By: slim on Oct 1, 2005


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Description 

To find this route, locate the directions for "Fool's Gold", listed on this site. Approximately 20 feet to the left is a line of bolts. This is the first line of bolts that you will see when going left from "Fool's Gold".

First bolt is pretty high, but supposedly somebody added it fairly recently. If that is indeed the case, the old first bolt was up in minor cratering territory.

Climb straight up the line of bolts with sustained climbing on superb small edges and flakes. Some of the bolts are kind of hard to see (the 2nd in particular), due to the color blending with the rock. The climbing is pretty sustained and the bolts are far apart, and getting further apart the higher you go.

Rap from double bolts with 2 ropes, or take a water groove to the top (5.7 to 5.9, sparse pro).


Protection 

8 draws and a couple runners should do it. Not really a sport route, but doesn't require gear.



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By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 23, 2007
rating: 5.10b R

If you liked this route, you might also enjoy the nearby "Buffalo Tears."