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Acid Rock
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Charley Don't Surf 
Divine Ms M., The 
Four Eyes 
Sandinista 
Unknown between Divine Miss M & Erotic Plants 

Charley Don't Surf 

5.10d

   

FA:  Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Views: 755 page views

Submitted By: Derek Lawrence on May 27, 2002


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BETA PHOTO: Base of Route


Description 

Once the walkoff from the top of Helen's Dome is reached (see area description) head southeast towards Acid Rock and scramble up and left around a large rock with a brand new bolted slab which looks to be all of 5.4. Follow a faint trail which trends right, around 2 more gigantic boulders to the base of Acid Rock. A tunnel leads down and left to the base of Charley and the Divine Ms. M.

Charley Don't Surf follows the immaculate finger crack up and left for 150'. Perfect finger locks and a hand jam or two brings you to the crux not far from the anchors. The thin-crack crux felt more like face climbing than crack climbing as you can't get a good lock till its over. Continue to the top on 5.7 (looks like more larger cams needed) or rap the 1st pitch with double ropes (we rappelled).


Protection 

Stoppers with emphasis on small/med sizes, TCUs and #2 Camalot or equiv.



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BETA PHOTO: view from a step back

Charley Don't Surf

BETA PHOTO: Charley Don't Surf

Charley Don't Surf.

BETA PHOTO: Charley Don't Surf.


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By T Kelley
Jun 1, 2005
rating: 5.10d

So who's the wing-nut who added a two-bolt station halfway up this fine pitch? Apparently this was done to allow rappeling the route with a single rope, but it's still in very bad taste.

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Jun 2, 2005
rating: 5.10d

RE: The added anchors.That sucks to hear that someone did that. How close to the crack are they? If I recall, you could always swing/tension right to the anchors on The Divine Ms M if you wanted.Convenience anchors like this seem to keep springing up. Sounds like these would be a good candidate for removal/repair.....

By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Jun 2, 2005

Are they just before the crux? If so, I guess it makes for a good pitch of easy finger crack now....

By Brian Weinstein
Sep 17, 2005
rating: 5.10d

This route involves perfect rock, perfect gear, and a thought-provoking crux in a prime setting. Definitely one of the better finger cracks around.

By rob bauer
May 8, 2006

I was on this route yesterday and didn't find any bolts on the pitch, just the anchors. (It's refreshing not to find bolts on a crack, but we rap'd after the 1st pitch.) Double set of wires helpful.

By WiledHorse
From: NoGo
Jun 21, 2008
rating: 5.10d

Awesome route. 5.10+
Much of the crack is tips, with good locks in between. Slab foot technique helps considerably. Good gear when you need it. Double up on the stoppers. The move midway changing cracks is a kick in the pants. Final crux is insecure tips with foot smears. Several good rests to shake out the feeties.

You would be fine with nothing bigger than #1 Camalot. Offset Aliens are nice to have.