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Acid Rock

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Charley Don't Surf 
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Acid Rock

Submitted By: Matt Juth on Apr 19, 2005
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst
Views: 281 page views

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BETA PHOTO: Acid Rock from the top of Helen's Dome


Description 

Acid rock is the middle tier in the group of rocks beginning with Helen's Dome and ending with Velcro Wall (Sheep Rock's summit) It is 500' to 600' tall with immaculate granite slabs and a few good cracks. The first 200' to 400' holds the best climbing.


Getting There 

The directions under Helen's Dome are concise and will get you there.



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By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Apr 27, 2005

For some reason most of my description and directions are gone.....

The bridge has not been replaced! I didn't say that!

There is a log you can cross, with a handline north of the old bridge. You can get there by parking on the ridge just before you get to the old buried campground. You will see a "danger" sign, and a laminated piece of paper telling you that there is a log just east of the ridge top. Follow a trail along the top of the ridge, drop straight down to the river, and you will see it. From there, you can regain the old trail system on the other side of the river.

By rob bauer
May 31, 2006

I did the route just left of Charlie Don't Surf, which Hubbel calls #39, Unknown 5.10b. The bolts are all 3/8". The 2nd pitch has about 9 or 10 bolts now, is a bit friable, and struck me and my partner as a lot harder than rated. (We both thought Pow Wow Canal was easier, which seems right at 11a.) It appears to be drawn right, with the 2nd pitch easing up when you reach the shallow crack slightly diagonalling up right to the anchors (with much appreciated beefy bolts just below the old chains). Anybody else think it's under-rated?

BTW, assuming Hubbel has the drawings right, I did see 5 or 6 bolts to the left of us on the 2nd pitch of Sandinista(?) are still the old Leeper hangers, no doubt with 1/4" Star Drive or Button Head bolts, though it appears there's been some work on the first pitch, including the 1st anchors with quick connects. Any thoughts on this?