The route starts on a ledge on the right side of the Tilted Tower. It's a crack that angles right, then up. You can belay at the first large ledge. Then follow the crack(s) system up to the large off-width crack at the top. Once your at the next large ledge its up and over the OW crack to the summit. You can belay from the very top of Arch Rock.
You might want to do 3 pitches if communications are a problem. It can be very hard to hear with the river noise, wind etc.
Protection
Route takes from .5 up to 4.0 WC sizes. Cracks usually take from 1.5 to 2.0. There are plenty of placement possiblities. There are NO bolts, and only one fixed piece of gear (stopper?) on the second pitch.
By Mark Nelson From: Coniferous, CO Jan 20, 2006 rating: 5.8
Good moderate natural line on solid rock.
You can really push yourself right off the deck and try a hard (but protectable with large nuts) flaring variant crack that is more .8+/.9. Overall, a nice 5.8 climb; we did in 2 pitches and a walk-off, the first pitch was really fun. The finish OW was not that difficult.
The 5.8 leader shouldn't be put off by the 5.8+/5.9 start that Mark mentions. I found it surprisingly easy to protect before making the hard moves. Perhaps warm up on another route first.
I believe he's referring the "variant" when he says .8+/9, not the original line.
By Tom Johnson From: Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe Sep 16, 2008
There is another variation on the first pitch that follows a left facing dihedral about 30 ft right of the usual hand crack. It's super fun, although quite short. Protects well and probably goes at easy 5.7. Also, I didn't see the fixed nut referred to in the description. Be ready for a bit of squeeze chimney near the top of the second pitch, or else duck out left onto slab. Great route.
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