Another great dome for moderate routes, although some of the "beginner" routes are spicier than average. The rock looks kinda chossy from the road, but some great routes are hidden between the moss, lichen, and blocks. Don't miss the great sport route, "Ben Dover."
Getting There
One of the last rocks in the canyon. Look for the big dome of the right side of the road at the 8.2 mile mark.
Lance, Bill Parmenter, Robbie Mitchell. Certainly climbed before- located in and just right of dark, deep crack by dihedral far left of Pine Away, right of Armas Daj, and barely to right of 5.10 bolted line on face before it bends to a dihedral corner.P1. Climb on the face (or mix with crack moves, some vegetation though) just right of the deep crack up marvelous flakes and jugs 100+ feet to sculpted and rounded intersection of boul...[more]
Although I haven't climbed all the trad routes, they definitely seem 'spicier than average'! The sort of climbing that seems significantly more difficult for the leader than the second. Take the guide book descriptions with a pinch of salt!
I was wondering if anybody knew what the story was with the five bolt climb on the right side of the dome that goes up the slash-looking cracks. The first bolt is 30 or so feet off the deck, and there are no apparent anchors. It felt about mid 5.13, and I was wondering if anybody knew anything about it?
Ben, I climbed that last week. It's definitely harder than it looks. Afterward, I talked to some guys at the Icebox and one of them told me that it was 12a or C1. My partner and I went for the latter. We usually don't have too much problem with easy 12, but neither of us could make the move.
Davel, Thanks for the info, and I totally agree, my friend Brett (who regularly climbs slab 13) said he thought it was definitely 5.13. I'm glad to hear you guys got on it and felt it was hard as well. It's a great climb and will be really fun once it goes, I'd like to extend it through the roof and try to make something really classic, but I want to ask permission from the bolter first. Thanks for the response.
Posted a picture of a route that I am looking for information on. I would like to add it, but I don't know anything about it. It is towards the right end of the wall. Easy climbing past two bolts to a crux at the third bolt - a 5.9ish slab move to gain a ledge. This move is harder for shorter people like me. Then another bolt just above a short corner which can be protected with a small nut/cam if you like. The anchor seems to be shared with another bolted route to the right which starts on top of a large, leaning boulder.
I have a hard time discerning exactly what route you mean on Pine Cone Dome from the photograph, but I think what you climbed is "Harder Than It Looks" (5.10a). The route has 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor; some cams can give extra pro. Bill Schmausser did the FA. Fun climb with a short crux.
Lots of new sport routes here. More then are listed. A couple easier sport routes. I am not the best judge but the route just left of stories for boys is maybe a 5.8 you can throw in some pro after you lie back the flake. Their is also a new route just to the left of the 2 5.11s. This is really well protected and seems 5.7 with a move of 5.8 or 5.9. I have no idea so if you have any beta on these routes let me know.
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