Start in the same place as the Dark Art then head left following the bolts. The only real danger is halfway through - there is serious back slapping potential with the spray boulder. Bring a pad and have a good belayer and you should be fine.
Micah's is not the only instance of draws beeing stolen off this climb, we were fixing draws to make it convenient for climbers to do these fun routes and not have to clean gear. As always feel free to use gear that has been fixed, but it is absolutly and completly UNACCEPTABLE to steal fixed gear ANYWHERE! God help the soul who steals fixed draws if our paths ever cross...
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Left Hand Canyon, CO Mar 24, 2009
The discussion on draw thievery is much more interesting than Scott's route description.
Ben, I've never seen you mad. While I agree that taking fixed gear is wrong, I don't think you have it in you to hurt someone. Just my impression, besides with a Doc for a father aren't you supposed to be into healing. I see that the college climbing program has started up in CO and other states.
Ha ha, somehow these posts always turn into ethics discussions, I shouldn't fuel the fire Hank. Sometimes these things get a bit out of hand, but your right Lee I don't think I could. It just bums me out becuase some of those draws were ones I had given Micah, and this is the second time this has happened. This area is the only really steep thing around for a while, so I tried to kind of adopt it and be a good steward, but cest la vie.... Anyhow the college thing is up and running! My friend Ben is spearheading it with USAC, and were doing an event at CC in a couple weeks. How are you doing? Rumor is your sending hard lately....
Yeah, we saw Ben this weekend since we just did our comp for the college series. What is climbing well is relative, but yes right now my health is good and I'm able to get out climbing with our 1 1/2 year old and a friend during the week, but moving around is more complicated so we tend to just go to something and work on it rather than moving around a bunch and trying to get a lot done. Mostly though it is that my fingers have not been giving me trouble lately, though the shoulders are starting to pay for it.
I'd like to get back to some areas around the Springs and finish up some things that I had tried but could not do previously.
As far as fixing draws. It is a great sevice to the community on steeper routes such as Spray, Dark Art and Spew, however if I recall correctly, the cliff is visible from the road? Which could lead to someone feeling that fixed gear is an eyesore. No I know that there are lots of areas such as the Arsenal at Rifle where there are loads of fixed draws and obviously visible from the road, but there are other areas where this would never be tolerated. I'm not saying the draws should or should not be fixed and certainly if someone is going to remove fixed draws the least they could do is leave them at the start of the route so the owner could reclaim them. Another option might be to fix something more permenant by using a quick link if you were not already and chain or a swaged cable draw. If the culprit is taking the gear for their own use which is the other possiblity it would be less likely to happen if the gear was not something that was useful except as fixed (chain would be cheaper, swaged draws run about $10 a pop).
By Ian Spencer-Green From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 14, 2009 rating: 5.13b
I left a fair of amount of draws hanging on the Spray Wall in the old days when I was working on routes. I too would have been pissed as hell if someone stole them! Thievery has no place at the local crag. BS! Concerning the grade, when I cranked the FFA third try, there's no way I thought it harder than .13b. Also "Spray" was bolted by local Darryl Roth. It sat as a project for some 5+ years before my FFA.
RSS Feed
