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Arch Rock
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Obscura Direct 

5.7 X

   

FA: Bryan Becker
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 230 feet
Views: 227 page views

Submitted By: pete cogan on Jun 29, 2006


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Description 

This is a fun route as long as you don't fall well into the second pitch.

P1: Easily protected and easy crack. When it dies out, head R. You can protect this traverse with the smallest Alien. Then, set an anchor below the R facing dihedral. About 80 feet.

P2: 40 feet of fun climbing in the dihedral, then about 70 feet of very easy climbing -- with absolutely NO PRO -- to the roof. You can put pro beneath the roof (cams #1 and up), but once you're over it you've got another 30 feet of no pro, with one 5.7 move above the roof.

Bottom line: a fun route with the potential of a 140' fall.


Location 

Follow the crack that is between the 2 bolts of Zendance on your left and the R slanting crack of Arch Rock Route on your right. The route goes up the crack, goes hard R for 20 feet, then up the R facing dihedral. Then it's about 70 feet of NO PRO to the roof.

Descend to R, following trail.


Protection 

Standard rack, with larger cams to protect roof



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By Darren Mabe
From: Goulder, CO
Jun 30, 2008

Second pitch flake crack is pretty cool moves. great gear.

The no-pro run-out is indeed a long ways, but well-featured, and low-angled. Just keep following the good holds trending up and left.

#2 Camalot in the overlap with a runner. The weakness in the overlap that I pulled was quite a bit harder than 5.7, but I protected it by barely reaching and place a #0.5 Camalot mid-move, I am 6'2", +4 apeindex, so I wouldnt really recommend this way. A fall here would still stretch you to hitting the slab.

A novelty route.