The start of Waiting for Staircase below the first...
Description
These three bolted routes are started at the same location as Staicase and go up the face to the right of Staircase. None of my guidebooks have them listed and they are to fun not to be on this website so if anyone knows who put them up please let me know so I can correct the names. Follow any one of the three well bolted routes to a pair of anchors with quicklinks attached directly below the overhang (you can not see them until you are right on them). The routes are pretty consistent 5.8- but the top two bolts are pretty well spaced out and a 1.5 tricam fits perfectly into the rock on the right two routes. The left most route, closest to Staircase, has a bit of distance up to the anchors from the last bolt without anywhere to put pro, but it is solid rock. The hardest moves on all three routes seemed to come within the first two bolts. There are only two anchors for the three lines and the routes themselves are a combination of face climbing and smearing.
It is important to note that these three climbs are all over 100 feet long so two ropes are needed to rap off or if you want to set up a toprope.
I just climbed the 2 rightmost of thes routes and found that they both go to an anchor below the lowest roof that is less than 100 ft off the deck, so you can use a single 60m rope. However, the leftmost route (immediately right of the Staircase) goes to a separate anchor below a higher roof...you will need 2 ropes to rap from there.
Also, the 2 routes on the right have 6 bolts each and are well-spaced and plenty safe. I didn't see any need for passive gear.
The leftmost route is listed in the Colorado book as a 3-pitch route. The CO book says it has 5 bolts, but it has more...not sure exactly how many.
Actually, the two rightmost routes (of the three bolted slab routes immediately right of Staircase and immediately left of Hollow Flake) can be done as "sport climbs" with a 60m rope. I've climbed them both several times this way. In fact, I just had an outing with a bunch of beginners and we set up a toprope on the two rightmost routes. They share the same set of anchors, whereas the leftmost bolted route (3-pitch 5.9), goes to a different set of anchors that is higher up. This 5.9 route needs two 60m ropes to reach the ground.
The left-hand route is called "Kansas Honey" and was first climbed by Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell in 1980. Originally done as a 3-pitch route to the top of Arch Rock, it had minimal protection for many years. Now the first pitch is well-protected with added bolts. The other routes were put up in the 1980s but I can't recall the route names or who the climbers were...
We had no problems doing this route with a 60m rope, for both lead and descent and top-roping. This is a great face climb with abundant little knobs and foot divots. I would give it a 3 star rating.
I really enjoyed this climb. It is certainly doable with a 60M rope. For a leader that is pushing the limits with this grade getting to the second bolt could be a little bit scary (belayer beware). After the second bolt is clipped you are pretty much home free as the climbing drops a grade and you have nice climbing up to the anchors. The top is very nice with great holds and easy climbing and just a tiny bit run out to keep things fun. Just a tiny bit runout, certainly not a lot. Have fun as this is a classic slab with dishes for holds. It's great.
On the route closest to the staircase the hardest section was right off the ground. The climbing after that is much easier. Same with the second climb from the left. There is another face climb next to the hollow flake that is a fun 5.6.
Arch Rock
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