This great moderate route goes up the prominent notches on the N side of Arch Rock. Start the climb by finding the low angled dihedral below the notches. This first pitch is interesting, with actual moves and great protection. Hold up a nut and the crack will swallow it. Make a belay on the prominent ledge below the steeper, upper part of the climb. Take heart, the climb is easier than it looks. Enjoyable stemming, and crack climbing takes you up the obvious "steps". Above the steps, step left onto easier ground or follow the 5.8 OW section to the summit.
Protection
Standard Rack with a few large slings for belay anchors. Many nut placements abound.
This climb really is worth doing. It's so easy to protect I think it's one of the best 'beginner' climbs in the canyon. For non-beginners the 2-3 move OW adds a bit of spice
The "5.8 offwidth" variation isn't much of either, and is highly recommended. One of the best beginner routes in the state. It makes trad leading as mindless as it gets. Remove large nut, throw in crack, repeat.
I did this route on a Monday morning a few days ago and there were still three climbing parties on this rock. It was well worth the wait, but expect to wait regardless of when you go. This climb is no secret! I don't think I've ever been able to put so many nuts in a route before even though they're not needed.
I would just submit that "spicy" moves for beginners does not justify automatically retaining a 5.5 rating. Seems I recall that a climb is rated for the hardest moves, and others who have led this route agree there may be merit to a 5.6 (two moves or so) below the exit ramp near the top. The flared crack included in route topos at top is not a 5.5 - most parties exit left (before this crack)on a small babycrawl ledge to avoid the flare moves (5.8?), traversing to scramble rocks up to last belay.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Jul 17, 2002
Personally, I thought this was an easy 5.5 to a 5.7 finish. The "5.8" wideness at the top is not nearly as hard as Vedauwoo 5.7 and slightly easier than the 5.8 cracks on the Turkey Perch for instance.
Ran up the Staircase on Saturday 5-3-03 with my buds Jerry and Martha and had an excellent time. This was a great into for me to doing more than one pitch since this is a friendly moderate on great rock. Martha led the first pitch in fine form and Jerry cruised pitch two. The crux is at the start of the second pitch just prior to getting into the actual staircase portion of the climb and once you are into the staricase it is just fun climbing on a cool formation. Far exceeded my expectations and well worth the effort.
Don't be afraid to do the "5.8" variation to the end of the second pitch. It's one move of 5.8 (5.7?) into the crack, which protects well with a #3 Camalot, then easier climbing to the top. Highly recommended.
Clarification: the "crux" section is just above large alcove at top of first pitch (across traverse from top of 5.10 and 5.8 bolted routes/anchors) and just below the actual stairs on second pitch. There is a quite vertical section which if sequenced properly can yield 5.5 moves, otherwise it ends up being 5.6. The OW crack up higher (5.8) above stairs marks a left escape to a ledge and various solutions to the summit. There is yet another crack higher (but easier) that also could justify 5.6, but it is clear the majority votes to split no hairs --thus it remains 5.5. Fantastic route, either way! Enjoy! Oustanding for new lead practice, too!
By Michael J Yarros From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 4, 2005 rating: 5.5
Took Victor up his first rock climb ever today (Saturday 7-2-05). He loved it.
By Mark Nelson From: Coniferous, CO Jan 20, 2006 rating: 5.5
Could be the best 5.5 in the Platte. Good belay stance for a party of three. If this is your first lead, be aware that on the second pitch right off of the belay is an area that you don't want to take a leader fall. It's a stem & smear problem, but if your head is not into it, you may want your partner to take the reins. A rescue here turned out to be a recovery.
I found, to avoid the rope drag issue, either commit to the short 5.8 OW (more like a .7- handcrack for me), or runout on easy terrain the traverse left, then right & up to a summit tree.
Descent by walkoff to the south.
By Michael J Yarros From: Colorado Springs, CO Sep 10, 2006 rating: 5.5
Climbed this route at least 10 times, and I fell on the 2nd pitch about 25 or 30 feet up from the belay. A Blue Alien caught my fall, it was very wet in the back part of the crack (I slipped out trying an arm bar). We started first thing in the morning, you might want to wait for it to dry out before trying this section. ;)
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