Arch Rock Route 

Good moderate natural line on solid rock.

You can really push yourself right off the deck and try a hard (but protectable with large nuts) flaring variant crack that is more .8+/.9. Overall, a nice 5.8 climb; we did in 2 pitches and a walk-off, the first pitch was really fun. The finish OW was not that difficult.

The 5.8 leader shouldn't be put off by the 5.8+/5.9 start that Mark mentions. I found it surprisingly easy to protect before making the hard moves. Perhaps warm up on another route first.

I believe he's referring the "variant" when he says .8+/9, not the original line.

There is another variation on the first pitch that follows a left facing dihedral about 30 ft right of the usual hand crack. It's super fun, although quite short. Protects well and probably goes at easy 5.7. Also, I didn't see the fixed nut referred to in the description. Be ready for a bit of squeeze chimney near the top of the second pitch, or else duck out left onto slab. Great route.

Climbed today with my wife. A great moderate route that protects well. The "direct" start (see photo) is very tough -- 5.9+ or harder. The regular start (fifteen feet left) is easy (5.6?). Both take you to a small ledge about fifteen feet off the ground. From there the route follows an obvious crack which stops just below the first belay ledge. Plenty of rests along the way. You will need to do about 8 feet of face climbing (5.7+) to get up on top of the first belay ledge which is wide and comfortable.

The second pitch follows a crack up until it reaches a 15 foot chimney at the top of Arch Rock. The chimney can't be protected, but it goes back pretty deep and would be hard to fall out of. Near the top of the chimney, you will move left for about six feet of easy face climbing (5.6) that also cannot be protected, but there's lots of options for feet and hands. That tops out on a wide ledge which I recommend for the second belay station -- lots of options for a trad anchor. The actual summit is back on the ledge and up about six feet through a "hole" in the rock, but if you belayed from there the communication with your second would be very difficult.

This is a fun route on great rock that actually offers lots of opportunity for protection where I think it mattered the most. I used BD cams in the 0.75 to 4 range, with doubles recommended from 1 to 3.

Great climb! I would agree that the direct start is a 5.9-5.9+, and the rest is 5.8. It is easily protectable for most of it but with run-outs at the top. I used C4 cams from 0.4-2, but in places to 4, and can be done with a rack of nuts and hexes with only a few mid-sized cams.

As usual I'm struggling to understand US grades. Start of this climb was worth 5.9+ but after that the climb is at most 5.7, though enjoyable - "a good mountaineering route". UK grade would be Hard Severe with an optional 5b start.