This route is directly above the anchors on Hollow Flake. [Leonard Coyne in 1977. He led it with only a couple bolts and got bits of gear in the cracks. Very bold lead, considering it now sports 10 bolts. It's almost 120 feet from the belay on top of Hollow Flake to the anchors so plan on rappelling with 2 ropes or use a 70-meter cord. A third pitch, a short 5.9ish lead, goes over the headwall above past a bolt and then works up cracks to the summit.] From the top of hollow flake, clip the first bolt about 8 feet up. Continue up over a small overhang (protects well with a #3 TCU under it and another bolt on top) past 10 more bolts and a number of horizontal "ribs" to the anchors. Probably a little over-protected, some of the bolts are less than 6-8 feet apart. There is a bit of a runout on easy rock between the last bolt and the anchors. From the anchors, either rap back to the top of hollow flake with one rope, or continue to the top past a single bolt on the headwall above. Fun climb.
Protection
12-13 draws, #3 TCU, and something for the anchor.
This pitch is nice and sustained at the grade, with a great sense of exposure (especially if the wind is blowing). It doesn't look like a 50m rope would be long enough for the rappel back down to the top of Hollow Flake.
This is NOT the sprout route. This route is called Persistence. I think Fred Dearborn or maybe Shmauser put it up in the 80's It originally had only the 2nd bolt. The Sprout Route, climbs the features angling up and left of persistence after turning the roof, and is still very serious.
Anyone know about the 5.9 route right of persistence? It's good but I dont know the name.
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