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Zamboni Man 

5.10

   

FA:  Bill Schmausser, 1996
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 725 page views

Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jun 21, 2003


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Description 

This is the sport climb on the arete/face to the right of Hollow Flake that Roger Wilkerson mentioned. Climb the right side of the pillar just to the right of the Hollow Flake start. The cracks at the top protect well with small gear. Swing onto the face, and follow the line of four bolts to the top. Belay/rap from the anchors above Hollow Flake. The crux is just before the fourth bolt where the face thins. Good friction.


Protection 

Four bolts, small gear protects the start.



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By Larry Shaw
May 29, 2004
rating: 5.10c

Wow, what a cool route...this is the first pitch of the Sprout Route. Starts off with a .7 move then a .8 then .9 then is in the .10 range through most of the top...fun moves right on the arete with a little exposure.

By Stewart M. Green
Jun 7, 2005

This is not the first pitch of The Sprout Route. I don't know what the name is or who did it. Anyone want to claim it? The first pitch of The Sprout is just to the right and clings past 2 bolts then up thin cracks to the Hollow Flake Ledge. Anyway, this arete route is fun and devious. The 4th bolt is hard to clip though and right in the middle of the route crux...

By Bill Schmausser
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 14, 2006

Stew,

That's my work on the arete, nearly 10 years ago now...damn, I'm getting to be almost as old as you...LOL!

I rated it 5.11-, but I was on the lead toting a Bosch...so it always seems harder...go figure. I agree with the posters, probaby hard 5.10. Name of the route is Zamboni Man. 5.10c.

Cheers,

Bill