This excellent face route is up the face just right of "Village Idiot." Climb jugs up a steep slab past 2 bolts to a bolt at a left-diagonalling dike. Fun climbing leads up left along the dike past another bolt to a 2-bolt anchor shared with "Village Idiot." If you're a competent 5.7 climber you will have no problem with the protection. If you're not you may have a problem with mind control since it is somewhat runout.
So we've got 4 bolts plus the two bolt anchor... The climb is indicated (with the quickdraws) as a sport climb, but you state small - medium stoppers as pro.
Can you give us a bit more info on what to expect here? I assume there are some gear placements between bolts? How runout is it if only clipping bolts? How long of a rope is needed to rap off the anchors?
4 bolts in 100 feet. So runouts up to 25 feet. If you need more gear then bring the Stoppers. 1 200-foot or 1 ropes to get off by rappel from the 2-bolt anchor.
I found that the few spots where gear could be placed were easy and it seemed more reasonable to just continue upwards rather than fiddle around with stoppers, ect. That said, this is a great climb and the bolts are where they are needed. I thought the moves to the first bolt were the crux, probably due to the prospect of a nasy fall into boulders below.
I agree that the crux seemed to be down low & that is a nasty landing. Really fun route - definitely some room between the bolts & I did actually place 1 nut - but as I have said before I am a wuss. Next time I think we'll go ahead & climb the 2nd pitch to the top. Do Village idiot once you get to the anchors - also a great climb,much easier on TR.
Zendance is a good name as leader must "zen" out. The rating is good (7-) for how difficult the climb is. Just repeat that to yourself when you're leading. It's [facey] but has good feet. After the 2nd or 3rd bolt I placed a .5 cam in a small crack then I got a #2.5 cam in at, well the only place you'll see that one will go.The smaller nut placements mentioned are (I think) for the final stretch, which is run out but on secure footing.
Very cool route. You definitely want a 60 meter rope. I broke my ankle after being belayed off the end of a 150 foot rope here while lowering. I think I cut loose at the second or third bolt and took about a 30 to 40 foot slide into those nasty boulders (easily preventable). The climbing is great, I think I remember placing a nut between the first and second bolt or maybe the second and third but if you're a strong 5.7 leader you shouldn't need to.
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