If you've slogged up either Schooldaze or Jaws, this route is the pay-off. From atop the bathtubs, move up to the horizontal crack which appears to demarcate the turret after which this rock is named. The beginning of the vertical hand crack ascending from this point is slightly overhanging, but the gear and the holds are all bomber. Once the crack starts to peter out after forty or fifty feet, move left to some large blocks which will take you up to the summit.
Protection
Large nuts, medium to large hexes, cams to three inches, and a place for a pink tricam near the start of the route.
"Slightly overhanging" start? I think you're just being coy. The start is actually a small roof that must be negotiated in order to gain the crack proper. This route is indeed a "reward" for slogging up Jaws or Schooldaze - quite fun, if disappointingly short.
Define "coy", Darin. ;-) Perhaps for those of us with simian arms, it doesn't feel like much of a roof. Now, if only I had simian strength to go with it ...
Seriously, though. I thought I'd read somewhere that to be a true "roof", it has to project from the main wall about six feet. Am I just making up something out of the aether?
I call it a "roof" if any part of it is near horizontal. Makes me feel better, as in: "Dude, that roof was heinous!" ; "you mean that undercling flake?"
In this case, I'd say the horizontal part is at least 3 feet.
Hard to call any moves harder then 5.7, but definitely awkward going over the roof. I kept going straight up after the crack ended instead of trending left. Still no harder than 5.7, but keeps the climbing interesting for a bit longer.
Turret Dome
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