BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Roof Bypass. At the top you can see ...
Description
Start to the right of Anorexic Lycra Dog which is a bolted route up to anchors under the obvious roof on the left end of the crag. The first pitch follows the obvious crack on the right side of the roof using good hand jams and solid footing. Belay from either directly beside the roof lip using a small horn (8 feet to the right of Lycra Dog's belay anchors) and gear or push up further to a better belay ledge about 15 feet above the right side of the roof. From there, follow the obvious crack to the summit and belay from the boulders on top. Walk off to the climbers right down very low angle slab.
Protection
Nuts and large hexes work for most of the route but you can place cams from 0 to 4 without any problem if you want to bring them along.
Great route! Lots of good moves. I found myself steming a majority of the climb. I did this in 1 pitch (it was a long one). The 11-mile guide book says this is a 5.6, I would have to agree with Boulder.com, I think it's a sustained 5.7.
I totally agree with Amy. Did this route today as a second for a new lead climber - he was stressed - it is NOT a 5.6 or I'll take up bowling! Also agree it is quite sustained solid 5.7, the 5.6 moves are perhaps fewer than the 7's. Protection is ok, some placements are harder due to the shade/lichen/moss in the main crack, but all in all reasonable. I think a few of the Eleven Mile routes were rated by people who forgot what it felt like to be a beginner/moderate new leader. This is definitely a 7. And a "tough" 7 if there is such a thing. Great route description on this site!
Very fun route and worth doing. Both pitches are easily combined into one and a 60m rope will reach the top. Thought there was one 10ft. section of 5.7 near the roof bypass section.
For a 5.7 jam crack this is as good as it gets. Steep with consistent jams. I brought an extra #2 Camalot and put it to good use.
By Mike Ben From: silverthorne/denver May 21, 2006
This is a fun sustained climb. I can see how a new leader could struggle a little. Had to dig out a little moss to make a placement. I love the hand jams on this climb and the hex placements. The book I have said this is a 5.7 but This felt a little more stout than Lichen or Leave It (5.8). Maybe cause it's more sustained. Highly recommended.
You guys that want to rerate these climbs should read the book Climb - the history of climbing in Colorado. These climbs were established in a day when climbing grade 5.9 was as hard as it got. When looking at guide books for grades also look at what year the climb was established and by who. 5.7 Layton Korr routes can be incredible and very hard.
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