This is a really fun route and makes for a great first lead. Moby Grape is located near the right end of the dome in a large right facing corner.
Pitch 1: 120" 5.7 Begin with a few moves up the slab to reach the corner. Follow the corner for about 100 feet of fun stemming and jamming with perfect protection. Just below the anchors the crack peters out and the rock bulges. Face climb over the bulge on large holds and move up to the anchor below a large roof. Either Rap with two ropes or continue up for another pitch.
Pitch 2: 100" 5.6 Face climb up and left to avoid the roof. The climbing quickly becomes easy as you move up the slab. Continue until you reach a bolted anchor in a pod below the walk-off ledge.
Walk off to the climbers left and scramble down along the edge of the dome.
Led Moby Grape today...have done this route quite a few times, however, in the middle of the route there is a large boulder in the crack that is very loose...BE VERY CAREFUL...it really needs to be pulled off for safety reasons...we would have today but too many people around.
Great route but not for your first lead. I thought the pro was going to be better, according to the guide it's great. Good moves all up the first pitch. Pull through the crack in the roof above the first anchors, the best moves on the climb, then slip your way up easy, unprotected lichen slabs to the top ledges. The walk off is exsposed and kind of sucks.
Agree with Les on the walk off. It is relatively low 5 grad traversing, but if you slip it's a potentialy fatal ride all the way to the deck. Would advise staying roped up and on belay until you reach the hike down on the nortwest side.
The first pitch of this route is a great one if you're looking to take a beginner up a sweet toprope. It is possible to use a 60m rope, but I had to climb the first 15 feet or so of easy rock at the base of the route in order to belay for the toprope. Of course, that also means downclimbing from that point after you've rapped from the anchors. I didn't find it too tough at all.
Great route, don't just do pitch 1 & 2 then walk off, head up the easy crack above pitch 2 anchors to the top! Fun little step from pitch 1 anchors to get around the roof. Wasn't up for the direct over the roof, but it looked doable. I stopped short of the pitch 2 anchors and put a long sling around a big boulder so I could see my 2nd come up. Another fun route at 11mile.
Good route up solid rock. Wasn't super hard, but definitely fun! There are lots of holds (on left wall or right face) and good stances to place pro. Bring 2 ropes to get down if you don't want to walk around.
By John McNamee Administrator From: Littleton, CO May 22, 2006
Only one 60m rope is required if you want to rap from the anchors at the top of the first pitch. It will get you down to just above the ground from where you can easily pull the ropes.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO May 29, 2006 rating: 5.7
Lots of rests available on the first pitch. Definitely worth doing if you're in the mood for a mellow climb. The downclimbing at the base isn't difficult if you're on a 60m rope.
Moby Grape is a rock group from the 60s! They are so old that I have an album of theirs that is monaural (not stereo for you ipod heads). Listen to "Hey Grandma".
By Michael J Yarros From: Colorado Springs, CO Sep 4, 2007 rating: 5.7
This is a nice route, but gear placements down low can be tough in the shallow crack.
On the first ascent, Gregg dislodged a pretty large flake almost trashing me AND his brand new Purple rope!!!
By Dave G From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 29, 2008 rating: 5.7
I found the first pitch to be a nice climb on the easy side of 5.7. The second pitch wasn't all that interesting and I wish we had just rappelled down and using the time on another route.
By Rich F. From: Colorado Springs, CO Oct 25, 2008 rating: 5.7
Agree with Dave G. Really fun 1st pitch -- easy 5.7 Simple to protect. Crux just before the anchors. Set a top rope for followers. You need a 70m rope to set up a top rope from the bottom.
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