Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist 

I first did this thinkingi it was hollow flake! I really like a #11 HEX to get youthrough the opening moves. getting to the HEX is different than getting to the corner!

This is a pretty fun route, especially for new 5.8 leaders. Hexes work fine too! The first placement is an awsome 3.5 friend. Bring a big sling to backup the goofy anchor at the top.

Great route! The crux is getting past the thin slab at the start and placing your fist piece in the dihedral. Once in the dihedral, there are plenty of good stances along the route to place additional pro. The goofy anchor at the top is a steel cable wrapped around a block with rap rings backed up with a ratty sling. It looked solid, and we made it to the ground in one piece...

Stood on the small boulder to place a #4 Camalot for the first piece. The traverse left was the crux. Once you are established in the dihedral the climbing is straightforward and fun.

Moving from the tricky slab, to the fist crack, to the hand crack is classic. The rest of the route is fun too.

Anchor on top is now ratty cable w/ some rusty chains looped through it. It had some duct tape stuck to it for confidence builder. Made it to bottom ok. Short climb.

After watching a guy blow the inital moves on the slab before getting any gear (hope your ankle is okay), I started on the slab with small crack system and made my way right to the main dihedral. Sure its easier, but my ankles feel fine. Take a look at the first picture below and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Matt, then you miss out on doing the "Captain Fist" move!

Good technical fist problem, perfect fist jams. Protection was placed before committing, so I don't see how the groundfall potential could deter a [competent] 5.8 climber from trying this route. There are also some good moves up the line to the anchor. I thought this was quite fun & would climb it again.

I agree with Mark. The slab start shouldn't deter the competent 5.8 leader. Moves to get 1st pro are perhaps as much as 5.7. One can place pro up high in the chimney to the climber's right to keep from tumbling down left if one does take a fall. Of course, you will still deck and will want to remove the chimney piece before finishing the pitch.

With my reach, I was able to stand deep in the overhang and get a #4 set in the bottom of the crack before launching onto the slab. Once that piece was set, it was actually quite fun traversing out of the overhang and onto the vertical section.

Nice variation, climb as described about half way up the corner, and cut right then up following the hand to fist to offwidth crack. Short (20ft) but very fun if you like crack and is a bit harder than the start. Can be protected with a 1 or 2, a 3 further up, and if you like more pro a 4 by the little chalkstone (C4s). Top out and trav. a foot ledge to the left 5 feet to the normal cable anchor, or continue up the leaning tower to the bolted anchor on the top.

The original name of this route is MIGHTY JOE YOUNG put up by Gregg Stevens and I in 1977.

This route was climbed before 1977. I believe Brian Teale and Dan Morrison did in about 1974...