Start on the right side of the ledge that sits above a short chimney. Climb past five bolts while moving to the left occasionally to locate the next one. The bolts are quite spacious, but for a solid leader, it should not require extra gear.
If you have any doubts, bring an extra light rack of trad gear since a fall could be upwards of 35' or so.
Protection
5 bolts in about 130' so bring some small camming gear and stoppers too. It's not that runout with just the bolts though.
Pitch 2 goes over the roof at 5.7, and you can put in some medium to large cams below it. However, that's it, and if you fall once on that roof -- where there is no pro -- you will be taking a long, potentially painful fall. The walk off is supereasy.
Casey, I believe that's Staircase Direct, it's in the Falcon guidebook, it's an 8.
Also, thought this climb was much easier than 5.9, more like 5.8.
I think this climb could be done on natural pro. The bolt placements are all next to cracks? If I do the climb on natural pro, will the FA let me chop the bolts?
The crack above is 5.8. A second pitch to the summit. There's a bolt somewhere up there too. As far as Village Idiot, you can fiddle in some small nuts. Feel free to do that. No bolt chopping however!
By Rob Davies UK From: Cheshire, UK Oct 27, 2009 rating: 5.9+
Seemed hard for the grade but I may have missed the easiest line. Hardest moves were near to bolts but I had to resort to Mr. Micawber's POV that "something will turn up" in between. Tried to avoid the strong gravitational pull rightwards where the climbing looks easier....
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