Disclaimer: unless you are a honed South Platte slabmaster this will feel a bit harder than 5.6. You can bring gear, but the only places it goes are the really easy sections where you won't be thinking about it anyway. A good climb.
The route has 4 bolts, not six. Runout section atop to anchors may make new lead climbers quesy, there are some flakes near steep section, though, for small stoppers before the runout. It is a 5.6, IMHO, and low angle enough to keep most feeling okay. Nice route for sport intro. I wonder, Dave, if you were on Jet Setter instead?
I wanted to clarify the first ascent info on this route. I led the thing in 1979 with a handful of small nuts but did not climb up the final slab to today's anchors, but climbed up right to trad anchors and a block under the roof. The current line and the bolts were installed by Mark Van Horn in 1994, making this a well-protected sport lead rather than a sort of runout trad pitch.
I seem to remember 6 or 7 draws. Fun climb though.
By Michael J Yarros From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 9, 2005 rating: 5.6
Gear Alert
Nice route. Good beginner lead. Bolts are spaced far apart though, so be prepared. The cold shuts at the anchor are rusting, but the bolts themselves looked fine.
There seems to be a discrepancy between the Green guidebook photo/route description for Happy Trails and the description and photos shown here. The Stewart Green book describes a route approx 30-40 feet right of Moby Grape. The photos here of Ricky and his climb are another 60-80 feet right of the Green book route. If the Green book route is Happy Trails, what is the route described here? I just did the Green route today, and it is not what I'm seeing pictures of here. The "Beta" photo matches Green but the "Description" photo is different. The Green Happy Trails has 7 or 8 bolts now with two fairly new bolts with three chain links on each. The "Nose" felt a little stiffer than 5.6 on lead.
Yes, those photos of the kid are of the route farther right of Happy Trails. That's the first pitch of EZ Street, a 3-pitch route that John Myers, Ed Russell and I put up in 1979 without bolts. Now there are 3 bolts on pitch 1, which is 5.4. Second pitch pulls the overhang above at 5.6 and also now has bolts. Third pitch climbs the upper headwall to the summit.
Happy Trails should have 6 bolts. Again, the three of us climbed the lower part of the route to the upper slab and then traversed up right to the flake belay for Jet Setter. Thanks to Mark Van Horn who bolted the whole line in 1994 and added the anchors under the roof.