South Face Direct 

Watch the climbing to the first bolt. At about .9, a fall would send you skittering down the low angle slab. Harder moves at the second bolt lead to easier climbing above.

Getting to the first bolt, there used to be a nice right hand hold. I pulled it off in 1997. It made the moves a little stiffer.

Darren, I hope you're not saying you pulled it off on purpose. Bad ethics if so.

Otherwise, fun route. 2nd pitch noticeably easier (5.8ish) but there's a nicer view from the top and a great belay ledge to hang out on.

Matt, it was not intentional. I believe I made that comment as a warning of the slightly more difficult opening moves before you are protected by the first bolt, and in response to Larry's comment about the fall potential getting to the first clip. I fell when the hold popped, and my partner was spotting me. I wasn't hurt though. That's all I remember.

Good route. The crux lies within the first fifteen feet, on thin fingernail flakes. There's also a short section towards the top that may be 10a for a move.