The Overleaf 

Question about the fixed anchor at the top of the first pitch: is this anchor above the roof, or is it found by traversing right under the roof and then up the flake? A bolted anchor above the roof would be nice. Otherwise, you might have some burly rope drag for about 30 feet to a good anchor spot. Or, if you choose to belay right above the roof, using a little crack out left and the crack just above the roof, you end up being in your second's way as he/she is pulling the roof. Good route.

The anchor is above the roof, put long slings on gear below the roof and you will not get rope drag going to the anchor in one pitch. There is also another bolted anchor past the roof out to the right on the face in a big dish. This is a bit lower than the anchor on O.L. if you do get rope drag. This may seem like pretty stout 5.8 to some people.

Remember the roof moves being cool. The slab below the roof made me scratch my head a bit. Also, seem to recall some rope drag issue, but the belay could be set up easily anywhre after the roof.

This is one of the best trad routes I've ever done. Great moderate climbing most of the way and bomber gear placments. That roof is pretty burly if you take it out straight up. Made me sketch a bit, but there's a nice chockstone you can sling just under the roof for some peace of mind. Didn't try the traverse out right, but it look significantly easier. This is one long pitch! Did it with a 50 m rope and my belayer had to climb a good portion of the lower route just so I could make it to the anchors. Man I gotta get me a 60m!!!!!

I was not amazed by this climb but it's an ok way to summit. I would definately recommend a 60 meter rope and lots of long slings. I would try to do the climb in 2 pitches. For comfort you'll want a BD 3.5 and 4 cmas but ok with 3 and under.

The trick to the first pitch is to start your belay as high as possible. I would say go under right under the roof (5.9 possibly) and use 4ft at the pinacle of the roof to elimate drag. You'll need the 3.5 and 4 coming around the right side of the roof to the right sided dihedral/crack. Blow by the bolts to the right side and go all the way up the dihedral to a belay with some cable. Belay there, build one if you don't get all the way.

Second pitch ruins the route its runout (25ft) on super easy bathtubs. Belay just below at the summit. Walk off the back and turn left (north) and walk off the gully.

The roof moves are fun and there is a thank god jug a foot over the lip. The roof moves were harder than the traverse right but the traverse seemed more sustained and runout near the top.

The roof direct is definitely on the hard side of 5.8.

Did the roof variation of this, which I would definately recommend. It has better moves, protection, and rope work. Pulling the roof itself is a little stiff, 5.8+ and out of character for the rest of the climb which goes 5.6-7

I really enjoyed the climb. It is great for newer climbers either for lead or seconding. I found that the roof moves were rather easy, maybe an 8, but I wouldnt say 8+, the moves are just a little comitting. I climbed up to the roof, brought up my second and then climbed around the roof. Someone left 2 well-placed nuts there, and I think they are pretty much fixed, so if you can't get the roof, then you can bail without leaving your own gear. I would say to rap off the cable pot hole sling, as the summet isn't that great, but if you do that you will need 2 ropes.

I wouldn't go into this climb with a 5.8 mindset. (I thought 2 stars @ 5.9)

The direct line up to the roof is a grade harder, expect a series of sustained 5.9 moves to get under the roof. I wouldn't consider this section to be similar in technical rating as other trad routes in the area, such as the Arch Rock Route. But this is still a decent route; just expect a little sandbagger section.

I would offer to do the walk-off as you can’t really see if someone is coming up the roof from the cable rap position & voice command can be difficult to hear. (Post edit 2007 - used 2x 60M ropes to the ground from the cable, the rap does not go over a leader; so I'd revise & say this descent is cool)

I would highly agree that the line that takles the roof head on is harder then 5.8. Would have to say mid .9ish. I would also say that there is definitely a right and a wrong way to tackle that roof, and if you do it the wrong way, it's going to feel way harder than it should.

Went back and redid the section on seconding & figured out what my problem was. I'll revise to go to 3 stars & 5.8+ for the direct line through the overhang, a physically great section for the crux, wonderfully fluid hand jams. A #5 is a piece you'll not regret bringing along.

I agree with Mark's last statement. I found getting to just below the roof to be a bit tricky. With knowing that rope drag would be an issue I chose to set up a belay at that point and then chose to finish going right (easier than it looks). If I get the chance to do it again, I would attempt the roof but definitely challenging for an 8+.

My partner Tom led over the roof with no problems, however I couldn't get my sorry butt up it even with Tom pulling on the rope. Pulling myself up with nothing for my legs definitely seemed harder than 5.8 to me. Tom didn't find any anchors near the roof and climbed to the anchors at the top of the route. With communication issues and a cam not far above the roof, going around to the right was not an option for me. I anchored about 15 feet below the roof while Tom rappeled down to me from the top and just made it below the roof on the 60m rope. We then tied our two ropes together to rappel down to the road. I hope to get this one another try.