BETA PHOTO: Dragonslayer and Transgression, as seen from the a...
Description
A long route that diagonals through three sections of hard climbing. Rain kept us off the third crux but also revealed a good way to do this route at 5.11c: After the second crux, climb the easy hand-size crack to the right and then reach right to the anchors on Holey Joe; this flows well and allows the 5.11 climber to climb the brilliant first 80 feet of the route.
You wouldn't know it from the base, but this might be one of the top 10 routes at Devil's Head. Superb rock, amazing movement, and great position. Good rest imbetween the cruxes keep the climbing easy for the grade. Get on it!