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Alienist 

5.10b

   

FA: Scott Sills and Janice Harnak
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 100 feet
Views: 112 page views

Submitted By: bert honea on Jun 2, 2008


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Description 

We tried this route last weekend based on the recommendation of new guidebook. It takes the line just left of Topaz. The first 30 feet are awkward trad and then very thin face climbing past several (7?) bolts lead to a belay just left of Topaz first anchor. Having done several 10 and 11a routes earlier we felt the 10b rating was pretty conservative - more like 10+. Harder than Black Wave for sure (11a). Other thoughts?
An excellent outing though a bit lichenified. We rapped this pitch due to time constraints but would have chosen to finish on Topaz.


Location 

Located just left of Topaz slab. Start is small, broken corner. Look for a rightward-trending line of bolts about 40 feet up.


Protection 

Trad first 30 feet, then bolts. Good anchors.



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By Tom Hanson
From: Castle Rock, CO
Jun 3, 2008

First ascent of Alienist by Scott Sills and Janice Harnak