Stu Ritchie getting into the first crux on High Pa...
Description
High Plains Poser begins just right of the obvious left-facing corner (Sheep Buggerer) and is the fourth route from the left accessed by Sun Deck Ledge. An exciting step over the void (formed by the back of the ledge) on interesting holds leads to a tricky 10c crux on the left arete. This is followed by moderate climbing on very featured rock to a semi-hanging belay in a groove. The second pitch heads out right and up steeper rock with good holds (easy 5.10). A nice section of South-Platte style, high-angle slab leads to a step left (blind side-pull) and exciting sequence up a high-angle groove (10c). Head up easier rock to a stunning belay perch at the top of the Crag Ranch.
Given the variety of climbing, rock quality, and views, this is an outstanding route. It should be included with Topaz as one of the best 5.10 routes at the Head (and therefore - perhaps arguably - in the top 20 or so 5.10 sport routes in the state).
Location
See the description for Sheep Buggerer to access Sun Deck Ledge.
Protection
This route is closely bolted (in part, I believe, to avoid any cheese-grater falls on the upper slab). About 16-18 draws and a few extra carabiners should be sufficient.
This excellent route gets shade in the morning. This is a must-do in the area for this grade. Two long sport pitches, great friction, balancy, some crack technique, great views at the top.
2 great pitches. The second pitch is varied and really fun contrary to what others may have said. Don't stop after the first the second pitch was the winner of the 2.
By Kat A From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO Sep 13, 2008
We linked the two pitches with a 60 m, and it worked ok with extending runners on some of the bolts, and skipping a few bolts (yes, some are closely spaced).
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