Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Headstone
Show routes:
Select route...
Alienist 
Chickenhead 
Clouds of Jupiter 
Epitaph, The 
Haus Flake 
Head Trip 
Io 
Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My 
Noble Savage 
Project 
Rampart Rage, The 
Razor Burn 
Remote Control 
Rock Nazi 
Scratchy Face 
Topaz 

Io 

5.11b

   

FA: Richard Wright and Tom Hanson, 1997
Type: Sport
Views: 297 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 22, 2001


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

Start in the huge, left facing dihedral at the North end of the Headstone. P1 (90 ft) runs up on 5.11/5.10 climbing over a system of rounded ledges. P2 (90 ft) chases toward the top on similar climbing. Compared to many things on Devil's Head, this route will seem run-out (7-8 draws per pitch) . But the feet are good, and all of the clips are from stances, so just stay in tune and ride it up. The rock is very sound, and the moves enjoyable. I thought it was fun. It keeps the shade and can be the only thing climable on the Headstone on a hot day.


Protection 

QD only. This two pitch route needs only 10 draws and a 60 m rope. Double bolt anchors at the top of each pitch.



Add Comment Comments on Io
Show which comments
By Kevin Frederick
Aug 12, 2002

This line has good rock and fun moves. It has quite a bit of lichen. I didn't think it detracted that much, but my second found it extremely unpleasant. You can go to the second anchor in one push with a 60m; you don't even need to have your belayer walk up the ramp to the start of the bolts.