This is the third route in from the left on the Crimpfest Wall. Dave's Dilemma ascends the obvious flake/groove system. Exit the flake onto relentless and insecure crimps. I found that carrying a few TCUs along provided a measure of comfort higher up, and a Friend to start can be comforting. The TCUs can be fished into a system of horizontal slots higher up. However, with a little boldness the line goes quite well on QD alone. Anchors have been placed at 80 ft and at 100 ft. This is a great line: I wish that Dave had done more Devil's Head routes. Most locals will remember Dave's brilliant line on Table Mountain called "Winter Warmer". Dave is the author of numerous bold, intricate climbs, of which Dave's Dilemma is a great example.
Protection
This can be with QD alone, however, a Friend to start and possibly a few TCUs will help with the spook factor. The route is very safe, but it is important to keep one's head together since all of the clips arise from stances above the gear.
I think that the photo numbering is correct. There is a little, pale flake on the left that appears to drop down as the photo sequence rises from 1 to 4.
If you are disappointed by some of the short, overrated, and overbolted routes on some of the new crags in Boulder Canyon, come do this route and regain your enthusiasm and respect for routes of this grade.
If, on the other hand, you think you are at your limit on 11a, and you have done a bunch of the afforementioned overrated routes in Boulder Canyon to reach that limit, you may want to be cautious about getting on this line.
Excellent pitch. I didn't find it too nerve-wracking. The layback between bolts 2 & 3 is commiting and potentially unnerving. A #3 rock or equivalent can be placed between these two bolts to lessen the psyche factor; unclip the nut after clipping the 3rd bolt to avoid rope drag.
Great climb. One of the nicer 11a's I've climbed. Stay on the lay back for a while, and the turn onto the face is nice. Tough start, and great position and pulls up high.
Great, long route. The burliest section is the layback near the bottom; stay in the layback as long as possible before moving back to the face. Keep the feet high in the layback and you will be fine. I wouldn't try to place any gear here; it would just tire you out, and I don't think you can deck from the layback. Perhaps you could place some cams higher up on the face but the route seemed fine with QDs only. After the initial layback, there are some flake moves, and then typical face crimps thereafter. The route is long and somewhat pumpy, but with decent rests. After the first set of anchors move a bit left for easy climbing to the second set at 100'. The route can get very hot in the afternoon.
The Crimpfest Wall
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