Remote Control was one of the first lines to go in on The Headstone, and its two pitches climb the longest continuous stretch of this rock. The first pitch provides access to the Private Idaho crag if desired; you can walk off to the right. The climbing begins in the middle of the main grey slab just before the system of tiered overhangs and The Vortex. For a slab, this is pretty well protected with a dozen bolts in 140 ft. The second pitch follows the right arete of the main upper wall, forming the skyline of the Headstone. Protection is a bit more scarce, but the climbing never gets harder than 5.10. Good edges, and small flakes and chips form the holds on the second pitch. Easily gets two stars for length and continuity, and the exposure on the second pitch.
Protection
QD only. Two pitches long with double bolt anchors at the top of each pitch. 1st pitch is 140ft long. 2nd pitch is 100 ft long. It is possible to scramble over to the Rampart Rage in mid line to reach the very top of The Headstone. Double ropes are mandatory for the rappels.
Wow. Excellent line up an awesome rock...great views of Pike's, no crowds--or any other climbers at all. Very well worth the drive/hike in. May 4th and it actually snowed while on the 2nd pitch. FYI, the 2nd pitch only needs one 60m rope to get back to the ledge--then 2 to get down from there. Also, IMO the first pitch is significantly harder than the 2nd, but very well protected. I guess it depends if you're better at friction slab or steep, edgy face.
Damn; what a good route. Serious appreciation to those who put it up as well as those who documented it here. I definately would never have done it if it weren't for this d-base.
The anchor on the midway ledge was fixed on 8/30/06. Previously, it had standard flat hangers with one quick link. That set up will DESTROY your rope. There are 2 quick links on each hanger, LEAVE THEM THERE.
By percious From: Arvada, CO Jul 20, 2009 rating: 5.10a/b
Thanks to Tzilla for fixing up that rap anchor. This is a not-to-be missed climb. A great warm up for hardmen, rapping the last anchors will deposit you directly at the "fun" stuff. This climb has an eye-opening start (10a), followed by some terrific 5.9 slab climbing, a roof (10a), and an awkward dihedral that you could off-width for 20 feet, so you desire. (a bit of everything?) P2 has stellar position, with a cryptic crux including an exposed leftward step into space. I think P2 is a bit harder than P1, bringing the climb up to 10b if you do both pitches.
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