This line marks the right hand end of the Headstone and starts off the trail just before dropping below a large detached boulder. Ascend some of the only South Platte crystal climbing at Devil's Head for 30 feet. Move right and fire straight into the chocolate criss-crosses to the top. The route finishes in strenuous long reaches on perfect stone, and it packs the pumpy crux at the very end.
Protection
QD only, but 90 ft long, so bring 15 or so QD plus something for the double bolt anchor.
Great climb, you will need you bag of tricks for this one. you need to smear stem,jam, and make a few powerfull moves to make it to the top (a great onsight)
I agree with the grade. The rating, two stars? Maybe after the maids finish cleaning it.I broke off two holds. One at the start and one at the second crux (small bulge). This is a great route that needs more traffic! Filled with tricky sequences. The top is amazing. Bring a umbrella for your belayer, Lichen City!
Good route. Long with good rests. Tough on sight but everything is there. Kicked off some crap, thankfully I was high enough that my belayer had time to move.
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