Topaz 

I didn't see any need for the #3 Friend at the roof, there are bolts the entire way. I did, however, use the gear I brought to set up an anchor on the comfortable ledge about 15 feet above the bolted anchor on a sloping ledge. The route is actually 200' and could be led in one long pitch. Great route!!!!

I would agree that the friend placement is optional. The placement is also not really very good, and I have often by-passed using it as well. The rock is juggy and the climbing is not difficult above the roof. However, it may be advisable to bring the Friend along anyway. There is a lot of rope out and drag can catch up with you once you are above the roof. My two cents.

Tod and I added a bolt (one or two summers ago) where the friend placement was previously made. I guess someone got a bit hurt falling off the roof so it seemed prudent.

I think it is worthwhile to note there is a very loose and large block on the second pitch directly above the belayer's head. It is not hard to bypass this, but it was my instinct to cram my hand in next to it right off the bat.

I thought this was a great route when we did it. Good job by the first ascenders/equippers! We had a hard time deciding where we were when we got there... But, oh well. The views can't be beat in this area, and the climbing was good, tricky, and sporty...

Does anyone know how/if the recent forest fire affected this climbing area? The only, short, headlines I saw said that Devils head campground was evacuated, and I also read that the whole surrounding area (Rampart Range) was/is (?) closed for recreation... I haven't been able to find any info anywhere, and haven't been in the area recently. Can anyone fill me in here? Thanks!

Joe, I've heard the area got torched but have not seen it for myself, but if you are looking for a similar type crag, check out Jurassic Park near the Long's Peak trailhead.

Devil's Head was not impacted by the fire - although you can see the damage from there.

Actually went up there a week ago, and I didnt see any damage to the area. Went to the top of the fire-tower, and you could see the burn area from the hayman fire from a distance. I had made my previous post in reaction to the fire that was going before the Haymen fire started... But, things look good here still! It sounded like it was going down with all the news, and evac's, but, thats great! Thanks to the firemen! I'll probably check out that crag you mentioned sometime soon anyway! Thanks,

Bryson - Bite your tongue. In no way can you compare climbing at the Head to climbing at J.P. Bernard's route, the 11d, is a great and comparable line, but nothing else at J.P. comes close to the quality of the climbing or the quality of the rock at Devil's Head. I've said this before and I'll say it again: Devil's Head possesses "the highest concentration of three star routes anywhere in the front range", and that includes J.P. The rock at J.P. is of a similar granitic base, but the highly featured and still fine-grained granite at the Head are uncommon in the Front Range, and J.P. does not have it. Scraggy Top has some, there are several bands running through Lost Creek, there is a bit near Big Rock Candy Mountain, some near the Sheep's Nose, and a few others. As for being a reasonable alternative to the Head - not a chance in the World.

Sorry for the misinformation about the fire, that's great to hear though!Richard, you're right the rock is a bit different but for some reason when I was at J.P. all I could think of was how much it reminded me of the Head, maybe it those corridor-like formations and steep routes on thin holds. I don't really know either area very well and perhaps on subsequent visits the differences will become more apparent. It's great to know this area is still open...

150 feet of some of the best face climbing I have done at any grade.The last 50 feet can probably be skipped without cheapening the experience, though.

The "very loose and large block" mentioned by Brian in a comment above was indeed *very* loose and *very* large. In fact, it is now at the base of the route in several pieces, as it came off with extremely light pressure while I was trying to squirm around to the 4th bolt (of the second pitch as described by Richard) without using the block. Fortunately we had elected to do a short first pitch and long second pitch, so my belayer was protected by the big roof.

This thing was a time bomb: the block was heavily chalked up and it appeared that most climbers had been jamming it directly to make the move (the guy climbing two routes to the right of me told me that he had "just cranked on that block two weeks ago"). It is very fortunate that it came off when it did, rather than with the belayer at the normal belay above the roof. I was somewhat reluctant to finish it out after this experience, but I'd say the second pitch is now at least a couple of letter grades easier (and safer).

BTW: Scott & Tom (and the rest of the "Head" crew) - thanks for the wise bolt placements on this pitch. Saved me from serious injury.

The "guy climbing next to me" was Dave Klein. Many thanks to Dave and his partner for their immediate offer of assistance, although I'm glad that it wasn't needed.

The block above the second belay may be gone, but another diablo still lurks near the first set of anchors on the adjacent route 'Chicken Head'. This thing is big and has a limited number of tugs left, so be careful.

Fun, sustained climbing the entire way. Not the typical Platte smear fest that is common. Lots of crimpy chickenette heads and cool exposure.

An excellent route on good rock with a variety of climbing from slab to juggy roof moves. The 150' pitch was our favorite line in the area. Thoughtfully bolted.