Sideways Smile 

FA:  Unknown, possibly us New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 120 feet Views: 254 page views Submitted By: Chad Stebbins on May 28, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: I borrowed Andrew's photo from "unknown 5.9". Sid...

Description 

This route follows a crack that crosses several routes. It starts the same as unknown 5.9, it then cross the unkown route to its right and The King & Eye, and then finishes on Chris & Pete's Wake Up Call.

Although it's a very obvious line, it's not in Hubbel's book, so it may be a first ascent. The crack was rather dirty in between the routes it crosses and I wanted to give it a name rather than add another "unkown" to this area.

Start as for Unknown 5.9, clipping the first bolt. Follow the crack up and to the right, placing gear as you go. A #4 BD micro nut is helpful above the first bolt. The crack peters out just before the bolt on The King & Eye. Clip it and make a heady traverse over to Chris & Pete's Wake Up Call. From the top of the flake, run it out over easy ground to a two bolt anchor up and left of the obvious large tree. Rap about 120 feet to the ground or one short rap to the bolted anchor below and then another 80 feet to the ground.

Protection 

2 QDs and trad gear. I used a #4 BD micro nut, a yellow, red, and orange Alien, and a #4 Friend.