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Island Express 
Pee Wee's First Bolt 

Pee Wee's First Bolt 

5.7+

   

FA: unknown, Pee Wee?
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches
Views: 155 page views

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 9, 2001


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Description 

The biggest challenge may be finding this rock. From Denver, go W on US Hwy 285, go S (L) on Foxton Rd, this T's at the South Platte River, head E (L) to South Platte, then it curves S, go 3 mi. There is a prominent large boulder across the South Platte River just N of the parking area. Park where legal. 2 drainages can be hiked up. The N one has Atlantis slab a short way up. Choose the S drainage. Hike 20 min or so. Find this rock just past Java Dome. Scramble up and around some boulders to past the S face of Java Dome and find Bali Dome abutting the R side of Java Dome. This route is the 2nd route from the L on this slab. Start on a gravelly bench. The 1st route may be hard to see.

This is a very runout and scary route that may invite the unwary beginner. Beware. The belayer should be ready to pull in lots of rope in the event of a fall. Protection is mostly mental. 4 bolts (mostly in the beginning of the route) grace this 200+ foot pitch. Despite the topo in P. Hubbel's South Platte guide, the anchors are much more than 160 feet up. There is a significant runout above the 3rd bolt and an even more significant runout above the 4th bolt. Yes, it is slabbing, but I don't recommend falling. There is a L variation above the 3rd bolt but it is better to smear straight between the 3rd and 4th bolts. We simul-climbed about 30 feet to reach the 2 bolt anchor and not to belay off a single bolt. Natural protection is very limited.

Rap 180 feet angling R, well right of the route to a bench. Scramble down from here.


Protection 

QDs 4, 230 foot rope, or simulclimb



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By Matt Nelson
From: Honolulu, HI
Apr 8, 2007

Yea, I wish I had the lack of fear as the first ascentionist on this route. It was scary. Be aware of the loose flake between 2nd and third bolt to climbers left.