BETA PHOTO: Unknown 5.9. Pulling over the little arch to the ...
Description
I believe this route is the first bolted route right of the arete that divides the main face, and 2 completed routes left of the obvious, left-facing dihedral of Chris and Pete's Wake Up Call. Stem/friction up to first bolt, then place gear in incipient crack. Crux is stepping back left from right groove with good nut placement onto the face to clip 2nd bolt. Good friction climbing. 2 bolt anchor. All bolts looked new.
Protection
I used a #11 stopper, a #2 Alien, and a small RP, plus QDs.
This was a fun route. Some really good stemming up to the crux. The technical crux for me was getting to the second bolt, you can get good gear in before making the moves. The psychological crux was pulling over the lip standing six feet above the fourth bolt.